Warping issues with raft

#1

Hi

I have tried 2 prints so far and for both one of the corners of the raft has warped making the final object really bad and unstable.

I used stick glue on the plate and it is not warped, do you have any idea how can I improve that?

Some pictures:

2016-04-17 21.04.44.jpg3120x4160 1.6 MB

2016-04-17 21.04.49.jpg3120x4160 1.49 MB

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#2

It looks like you’ve barely used any glue on your plate. My plate is usually a milky white color with all the glue that I’ve used. I also, just barely scrape it off and add more rather than fully cleaning the plate each time.

Here’s what I’d recommend:

  1. Lay down 1 layer of glue. Let it fully dry
  2. Lay down another layer of glue, and let it fully dry.
  3. if you’re still having problems, try adding 1 more layer.

You can use a heat gun or blow dryer to help speed up the drying of the glue if you want. What you are essentially trying to do is create a surface that has ridges in it so the PLA can stick to it. The metal itself is too smooth and won’t grip to the PLA at all.

#3

Do you use the stick glue that came with the printer? How long do you wait between each glue layer?

#4

I ran out of that long ago. I wait until it is dry. You should be able to touch it and feel that it is dry.

Another thing that can really help with issues like this is to use a “brim”. There should be a setting in there by raft layers, where you can increase the brim. I would set it to the max. It essentially prints a layer attached to the first layer and extends outward. It will give better adhesion, and if your first layer is a raft, you don’t have to worry about it at all.

#5

I was looking for a way to increase the length of the raft so that it extends even more outward from my model. Would you su best to use a bigger raft plus a brim? A bigger raft only? A brim only?

Can you share with me which glue do you use?

#6

It doesn’t appear that the type of glue stick matters.

Being that you seem new, I would do both a raft with 4 layers and the brim at max setting (I think it’s 10)

#7

I used the scotch glue, which came with the printer in first. as it was empty, i buyed some pritt glue stick, which also works. but now, as im waiting for the delivery of my fleks plate, i use the blue masking tape by 3m. its miracoulous, how well the prints are sticking now.

#8

So really, a Pritt Stick suffices?!

#9

Warping is typically a result of thermal differences between the bed and the print. Glue sticks help hold it down but the best thing is to remove the thermal difference.

Try putting a hair dryer on the bed for a while before printing to prove it out. I’ve put a thin heated mat under my print bed (only raises temp to about 30 degrees c but it’s enough to make a big difference)

IMHO

#10

So the warping will get worse in cold weather? It is something to be expected then?

IS there no work around without heating the build plate?

I lost another 50 hour print around the 1/3 done point due to warping… Warped right off the build plate.

the Cura raft is very different from the other one. I can’t get the raft off the base of my print…

#11

Warping is typically due to thermal differences between layers…you can trying and stick it firmly so it doesn’t warp, the other is remove the problem. Heated beds, blow warm air on the bed (hair drier) and/or use an enclosure/box to house the printer.

Personally, I tried rafts and I still has issues

#12

Thanks

Heating the bed does not seem like a viable option I think. I would have to leave the heat on in the office as well as heat the bed. For the length of the print right? So more than 50 hours…

#13

Anyone else having huge issues with this still or are people using heated beds now?

I see on here that quite a few of the regular members have various printers. I have determined that I would like a resin based system in the future so my staff can work on metal casting designs.

Is the FLUX Delta worth the effort to fight with it? I would say no given the combination of my lack of skill and the high maintenance required on the machine.

#14

SLA printers have other issues. The main turn off for me was the consumable tray that you will need to buy and all the post processing afterwards. I normally print without a raft on my other FDM printers so I have virtually no clean up.

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The Flux Delta printer is different and I’m getting a lot of problems from the initial print warping. I suspect it has to do with the ambient temperature and I will need to build an enclosure for the unit which defeats the purpose of such a beautiful design.

Had my printer in a box for a long time and just made room for it so I’m going to have to scour the forums to figure out all the gotchas with this printer.