There are other parts are connected with the belts and stepper motors like linear bearings, rods, ball rods and magnetic rings that you might look into it.
Yesterday I wanted to print this marble machine for my 5 year old prince:
Estimated print time: 32 hours for the track, 3 hours for the spiral, turncap and lockcap. Sliced with S3D.
After 11 hours the Flux canceled the print. No errors in Flux Studio, but the orange light was flashing. All rods were in place. The quality was (again) pretty bad. Unreadable letters, heavy stringing, layer shifting and warping (I used 3 (!) layers of glue on metal)
looks a bit like my issues.
I had prints stop for no apparent reason too and no error message plus I get random print shifts like that too. Sometimes even after doing printer maintenance.
Unfortunately I have no solution for it.
Well mine did finish but smaller print…
If it was a Cartesian 3d printer I would say that my Z axis leadscrew has an issue but in this case I have no clue.
If it was the lm bearings should it not be bad from the start ?
ok… my new print mat has a few marks on it now due to failures and i am getting horrible first layers! the toolhead scratches into the mat for the first layer and im getting major warping, i was getting good quality today morning but now its crap! i need help
Would you show your first layer test?
It spilled all out already since a Flux was on its side .
Thanks for that toolhead info
1187 hours… I had no idea it was that long.
I see some people getting great looking circles and round parts and some really just are terrible.
is that down to the stl file or the printer setting? I mean I know how resolution impacts a printed image for photography, what can and cannot be printed to what sizes. STL files are scalable kind of like a vector image? Is there no degrading of the file? I am not a 3d person so I have no real idea about how the files are put together, is it all just math basically?
I have been working on trying to get hollow prints. Specifically some of those star wars helmets from thingiverse. Printing them “right side” up requires the inside to be filled with support materials. Flipping them over so they are “upside-down” means a raft is required? I have always used on. However the top ends up losing a mess because there are not enough layers between the support material/ raft and the actual print.
@William_Ishiwata There are a few issues that can affect the roundness of circles. As you mentioned, the file itself can be the issue, or more specifically, the software used to create the circular object and how that software renders it. Some apps do better than others. There are also many settings within apps that could also affect the “roundness” depending on how they are adjusted. Remember that our 3D models are really just a series of polygons stuck together. If that polygon count is rendered too low, then you end up with those octagonal looking cylinders rather than circular.
Mechanical factors can also come into play though, so it cannot be completely limited to software. A partial nozzle blockage or filament feed issue can cause a kind of intermittent edge, which may look like a less than round circle. It could also be a problem with the LM bearings or smooth rods being misaligned and causing carriage shift. On delta printers like the FLUX, a problem with the effector rods or joints could theoretically create angular looking circles too.
There is no easy answer, so the best way to diagnose is to check files or create a few from different sources. Start with a freshly cleaned and lubricated machine to try and eliminate mechanical issues as well, and go from there.
@Tiwaz Could be bearings or could be ringing. A bearing issue may not be evident right at the start. Remember the FLUX uses the long version LM8LUU so the first cm or two is barely hitting its stride and the bearing hasn’t had to move much. Printing too fast can also cause that same kind of result though, so that is also a possibility. Or if the printer is not on a stable base and a wobble or vibration gets going, it will transfer right into the print. A lot of variables, process of elimination is the best way to figure out what is going on.
When printing, do the carriages look like that are twisting or moving out of level? They should stay perpendicular to the base. Are you seeing a lot of your lubricant turning black on the linear rods or on the ball ends?
What speed did you print that part at? Does the same pattern occur if you print slower? Is it always the same, i.e. reproducible at any speed?
Is your machine free-standing? Can you stabilize at least one side against a wall? Is it on a solid table?
Let’s try to narrow down the possible causes.
@Tyrolean You’ve got some temperature issues, and some other problems going on there. Please don’t start long prints until we get your other issues dialed in. The stringing can probably be resolved by lowering temperature buy a few degrees and increasing movement speed a little. It is not that bad, and that will probably take care of it.
Of more concern is the print stopping by itself with no apparent error message. Have you had that happen before? Can you try a few test prints of something tall and skinny so they won’t take a long time? We need to see if it is stopping at a certain height. There have been a few cases of that, and if so, then you will need to open a support ticket. I cannot tell you what exactly that problem is because the guys that have had it never reported back here afterwards.
The other issue you want to look into is what kind of glue stick you are using. They are definitely not all the same and that may be why you are getting warping, slipping etc. It may be as simple as changing to a different brand.
@aw1 What brand of filament is that? What temperature and any z-offset? Also, please turn your toolhead around the right way that kind of stuff bugs us old guys…
@aw1: The right way around being with the USB power/data connector facing the front of the printer. That was the cause of a lot of tilt/detached rods in the early days because having the head turned a different way put stress on the cable in the wrong place so it wouldn’t flex.
thanks for all the ideas.
I was thinking about ordering some new bearings and I will next week.
Yes the lubricant turns black quite quickly, do you have an idea as to why? It does it on both.
I though it might be the upgrade pads for one but even after removing those it still does it. It might be some metal on metal contact that shaves off particles but not sure.
I figured out yesterday that part of the issues are slicer related I will post some pictures about it when I get home (it might help some other people too)
I am not 100% certain, but I think the lube turning black fast is an indicator that the bearings are getting worn. More clearance inside them allows them to hold little particles so they dirty up fresh lubricant faster than before. Mine are doing the same thing, and I can definitely see the wobble. I ordered and already received the new ones from banggood.com from the link that I think @goldensnake posted here.
I haven’t installed them yet, waiting until I have time to do it properly.
- flux filament
- 215 degrees no z offset using simplify3D
prints work fine with flux studio, no z offset, maybe because cura2 primes the extruder so I think I should make the skirt bigger.
makes sense, was thinking about getting those from banggood too.
Plus yesterday when I watched some youtube videos and Thomass aid that bearings are supposed to be a snug fit… well minda are not.
Not sure if it was in that one but nonetheless interesting video.
With S3D, that looks pretty hot and still a little too close. 215 ok if that is 1st layer only. I’d still try a z-offset of .01 and see if it helps, and yes, sometimes with S3D you need to run several skirts to get a good primed nozzle. Don’t be shy with it it’s still a tiny amount of filament compared to a bad print.
I usually do 1 layer, 3mm offset and anywhere from 5-8 skirts depending on model size. (Less for a big model, more for a small one). Getting a good priming is critical to a good first layer and that is the key to the rest of your print.
I agree… I perhaps even over do it
I do about half a circle ouside (somewhat like flux studio) and a brim of 8-10.
The print stick really well
I rather have it stick then falling over and creating some “spaghetti”
I’ve been using the gel lubricant and once it’s applied on the ball joints and vertical rods; a black residue is almost disappearing under many hours of printing. I highly recommend it. Here is the results after two months of printing.