Nice work. I order white PLA in 3kg rolls as it’s almost like getting a free kg price wise.
ReneZuidam, what settings did you use to get it to print the tip of your rocket? I’ve had issues with properly printing pointed tips like that and they usually end up and smudged up.
Used Medium Quality on the Flux software, 8% infill, 4 skirts. Printed on Painters Tape in 54 minutes.
Wish I knew how to prevent the ‘hairs’ but overall I am very happy. Since I received my replacement print head and put tape on the print bed the Flux printer has been working like a charm!
Has anyone tried to print with the seam position setting set to random? Does it actually get rid of the seams?
Did someone try the Zebra Plate Bed?
I was looking at this!
What quality did you print it at?
Did you have any failures?
How long did it take to print in total ?
- so great !
Have you seen the “Wind Energy Stored in Gravity” ? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:952564
The lower part of the turbine would take 19 hours in low quality on mine !
have you tried increasing the speed or decreasing infill? normally i have speed at 85 and infill at 20.
The one from thingiverse
resized the y to 100mm
I am having serious issues with the max build size. It seems to be about 138mm?
Some major shrinking/ warping so they will not really work as one unit without help.
I am thinking maybe magnets
Pretty happy with this one. Needed supports for the skull and the stand needed to be reinforced. Good learning experience
This is my first print, which got pretty nice for my liking.
This is my second trial but it got destroyed while I was trying to clean the extra material It was very hard to clean it,
This I printed a couple of hours ago, I’ll try it with my sons legos to see if it fits nicely.
But reading your post up, I’m wondering what I’m doing wrong, as the first picture took me 21 hours to print, 2nd one 10 hours. Even the lego piece took 1,5 hours.
should I not print everything in high quality, should I print faster, what tweaks I should do? These are the questions I hope to find in the forums
Nicely done. Get used to the fact that 3D printing will take a long time, especially at higher resolution. It’s a tradeoff… if you don’t need good aesthetics then you can print faster at a lower resolution. You will learn how to adjust your slicer software parameters to reflect your needs. Keep reading the forum…not only this one but others you find on Google. YouTube is also a terrific resource. Welcome to the learning journey that we all embark upon when we buy a 3D Printer!
high quality takes a long time. i have never printed on other medium and i feel the end product is amazing
Depending on what you are printing and where the model came from I have found that the high quality setting is a detriment.
I basically only print on medium quality for the reasons of time as well as the things I have printed on high quality I can’t ever really find a difference with. I mean the layers are smaller but for me they don’t blend together nearly as well as the medium ones do. Not nearly as smooth as I would have though. Now that is up to the file I imagine?
Han Solo Blaster. I am doing a variation for a photoshoot I am producing in 2 weeks.
All done on medium print settings
I managed to print the upper part of the barrel/ gun standing on end. I flipped it in flux studio, added a raft and supports. It is not so clean that way but I managed it well enough for a prop in a photo shoot. If one is a collector it would need more work.
213mm is the upper barrel/ gun assembly and that is printed on end. I have no idea what the dimension is supposed to be as it failed to import properly. Since it all fits together more or less I am thinking I was pretty close.
This is the scope section, it was supposed to take 6 hours but obviously it fell over about half way through by the look of it.
I should have used a raft and supports…
I’ve been used the 220mm glass bed and the first layer are stick very well with only one layer of glue. It costs only $10.
I’ve not printed anything successfully on High !
I think that high is simply a preset.
You could alter those settings further by speeding up / slowing down, heating or cooling the head, altering layer depth and more. I think it needs that personally.
If anyone has any settings based on the ‘High’ preset that work ok - please let us know.
It’s quite an investment in time to print at ‘High’ quality just to find out it’s not great, detaches, or misses layer, or sags on one edge etc.
I have found that using double sided tape is great for those more precision pieces, and also taping the edges of my plate to the machine with masking tape or sellotape to stop the base moving is a good move.
My personal experience with my UM2, Lulzbot Mini, SeeMeCNC Orion, and Malyan m180, plus what I have seen on the Web, shows no noticeable improvement when printing at high resolution versus medium. I don’t use the canned slicer settings, preferring instead to enter them individually in expert mode. I print with a 0.2-0.25mm layer height most of the time and am amazed at how nice the prints turn out. I use a modest print speed. First layer is printed slower than the rest of the model at a slightly lower layer height setting to improve chances of getting good adhesion. If using a glass plate with PLA make sure you wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol to remove any fingerprints which will cause the print to fail.
I’m looking forward to getting my Flux so I can see what settings are optimal for it. I’d be surprised if they are much different than those for my other machines.
Just posted a quick video of a quick project.
A mini quad copter propeller guard-
I need to find a model for my copter. Also a propeller. Great job!