The Trophy Room: Show us your best prints!


#325

Theses last months have been very satisfying in term of print success and quality, so I finally dare experimenting bigger models :slight_smile:

Mario kart

T-Rex Skeleton



Baby Groot and Angry Groot


#326

I am doing that T- rex now.

How long did it take on the Flux, I am still working on it (4 days in)

I gave up on the Flux Delta a while back and have switched to a resin-based system.


#328

I am not sure any more, but it took at least a week (I regrouped parts in order each print last between 6 to 14 hours and generally launched two prints a day).

However, the tedious part was to remove the supports on each part. The assembly was then quite easy: most parts clips nice together (just to be safe, I friction welded them using a rotary tool), to connect ribs to the spine I was force to use hot glue (as the clips didn’t worked for them).

Good luck to you :slight_smile:.


#329

Thanks for the reply.

How much PLA was that? For me the resin for the base only was over 200mL which is a lot of money. Without being able to choose a 50% or less infill it is tough to get costs down on models like that.

Supports were the easy part for me. Most snapped off. I lost the 4th rib on the one side though when I dropped everything on the floor before it was cured properly.

Thanks


#330

It took ~450g of PLA for the whole (including supports), so it cost me ~7€ of PLA. I guest the low cost is the major advantage of PLA compare to resin.


#331

Interesting

yeah it took about the same in resin. At a cost of about €109 at current exchange rates.

Costs are way different.

I have yet to have a failure to print though.


#332

Where did you get this cute Pokémon models?


#333

Pen Pineapple Apple Pen!


#334

Trying my hand at actually painting prints (haven’t bothered before). Made this one for my lead designer. Plan to have it finished and on her desk on Friday (need touchups and to seal the paint still).


#335

Nice Eewee :slight_smile:

Sanding, and decent primers are key to painting. For small prints like tabletop models I use Tamiya primer low fill. For larger pieces Krylon type automotive primers are fine, a bit higher fill. A quick wet sand after a couple coats of primer and you have a perfectly smooth finish.

Bondo (auto body filler) is a miracle for gap filling in joints/connections too.


#336

I did a quick prime and sand with the army painter primer I have for miniatures…

But it’s the middle of winter, I have three cats inside and no garage to speak of to work in. So spray painting in my living room in December in Saskatchewan Canada was not high on the agenda! Haha

My boyfriend would have killed me. He’s only willing to tolerate the insanity so far…and there is a great deal of insanity.

As a first experiment I’m ok with it. Everyone else seems to think it’s adorable even if I’m already off making plans for what I would do different next time (first off being plan priming batches for during nice summer days not snowy winter ones!).

I got the requisite “gasp awww” when she saw it. So didn’t screw it up too badly!


#337