I got my flux on Saturday and have thoroughly enjoyed it. I am waiting anxiously for the software to be perfected. As I live in Taiwan, the box got to me in just one day with no problems. The boxing was secure and the unboxing was straight forward and I was printing in minutes. I am still getting the hang of the tricks and temperament of the machine. I have made three models and two laser engravings so far and am happy. Thanks Flux Team! Those of you with doubts… Please be patient. I am glad I didn’t give up.
After a few days of playing - Some thoughts:
Love the machine… hate the software… but that is soon to be overcome as the software updates. It simply will not run on my macs and I have three of various ages. I want more control of the model on the screen: rotate, scale by %, and such. Windows: It fails without crashing, meaning some processes get locked in a loop and I have to force quit the program. BUT I have been able to use a very small/light Windows machine to get good results at times.
The magnets to the print head CAN come loose at times and cause the print to fail. I have had limited success by changing the rods from one joint to another, swapping them out. It only happened a couple of times.
The nozzle can get clogged with unmelted material. Hard to clear. The feed motor will “click” when this happens… as it feeds three millimeters of materials then clicks and spits back material into the spool. I have had some interesting missing layers and failed prints from it. I think I have solved that problem for now by CAREFULLY using a THIN wire to clear the print head feed.
My biggest problem is learning how to get the model to STAY stuck to the base plate. Glue IS best… Tape is useless. But I have had fails as a model comes loose… however, it is VERY cold in Taiwan now and we have no heat in our homes. I think temp may be a factor.
The Laser etcher is fun, takes a lot of time, and does not impress people as the finished product just looks like an ink drawing to them until the run their fingers over it and feel the etching. There is no setting for plastic, but I will experiment with custom laser settings when I get around to it.
Overall - very satisfied. This is my very first 3d Printer experience and after only 4 days and a busy schedule keeping me away from the printer most of the time, I have printed 4 very good models that impress my friends… and 6 very failed models because of the material feed problem from a clog and from the base plate being cold. Not bad for a novice to 3d printing AND the instructions for the printer being much too limited at this time.
4 1/2 stars out of 5
SUBJECTIVE ISSUE: Pure (uncolored) PLA is unattractive. Models printed in White impress people on first glance. Pure printed models just LOOK wrong and seem to cause people to think the model is not very good. A white PLA model and a pure PLA model that are in every way the same in quality will be judges by people unfamiliar with 3D printed as the white one is good and the pure one was a mistake. However, if I slap a coat of acrylic model paint (used for Game Minis) on a pure PLA model, the problem is solved. But, I like the white PLA as the model is printing so I can see mistakes sooner. The pure PLA seems to hide mistakes while printing, but enhances them once you hold them and see them in the light.
Purely Subjective Opinion
UPDATE ON THE LOOSE MAGNETS:
I had stated that I had an issue with the magnets coming loose at times… but it was ALWAYS on the same side… turns out, that wire placement is EVERYTHING. The power/data wire from the top of the printer to the print head unit is stiff… and even if it is NOT touching anything at all in the movement of the head, the tension of the twisted wire can pull on the head… you must make a trial and error test to see which is the best placement of the wire. Now the problem is solved for me.
THOUGHTS ON TAPE after someone suggested Blue 3M Tape
The tape method yielded NO adherence at all. The model popped right off on the second layer. Perhaps I need to try the blue 3M tape as this was simple artist’s masking tape. I am also finding that the Scotch Brand Glue Stick (red container) is good, but that UHU Stick (yellow container) from Europe is a little better… just a little. And with white glue such as this, a thin layer is better than a thick layer. The thin layer drys quickly to the PLA but the thick layer does not dry and can come loose.