it’s supposed to last only 30 prints according to flux
I got my new one in the mail today. It lasted one print. Didn’t rip this time, but bubbled and wrinkled after first print removal. Going back to glass/metal and glue.
That is really strange. I’ve got at least 25 prints on mine and it still looks brand new. I’ve always used a scraper to remove the prints rather than pulling it off the metal plate and flexing it, maybe that causes premature failure.
oooooh, looks like we found a solution to an age long problem
My understanding was that you were not to use a scraper as that can damage the pad. You are supposed to flex and bend it so the print pops off.
Today I printed again on the undamaged side. I lowered the temp 10degrees and gave it a 0.2 z-offset. Now the prints pop off… the skirt is a little better but still difficult. Good thing I ordered three pads. I have two new ones to fall back to.
I never saw any reference to not using a scraper. I come in really, really flat and never dig into the print base. I inherited this printer, so I’m not sure if the scraper came with the unit, but it is the Japanese one with the green handle that I’ve seen in pics posted on other threads. It has a very nice tapered edge that slips right under the print and does not dig in to the print base. YMMV I usually print at 230/200 and have had no adhesion issues.
nice! @Michael_Haggard even I thought it would damage the pad i don’t have the best scraper in the world, so i might end up digging in, but i will give it a try, Thanks!
I can confirm that using the scraper will cut into the surface of the mat like a hot knife into butter. I’m running at a 0.2 offset and 195 degrees. The model was so stuck to the mat at one side that I could not get it to pop off, so I very carefully inserted the scraper underneath a corner of the bottle that I could break free, and as carefully as possible started separating the model from the mat. No matter how careful I was it began cutting into the pad. I do not believe that I was doing anything wrong, I paint miniatures with a 000 size brush… I’ve done medical work in the emergency room such as finishing stitches for a doctor… So I believe I was being as careful as possible. This is now the fourth pad go bad. I’m done with pads. Back to metal or glass with glue sticks for me.
Lucky the magnetic plate was not a patient in the ER! I bend my magnetic plate, which probably could deform it over time but so far (>30 prints) no physical surface damage!
I guess you didn’t follow the conversation. I had been bending and never used a scraper. Bending didn’t always work. Someone here suggested I try a scraper. I doubted that was a good idea. I have confirmed that.
Haha, im pretty sure im not gonna try that! gonna go back to to metal and glue too!
Wow! That looks really familiar Jim…
Where did FLUX say that the magnetic build plate was only rated for 30 prints? That seems questionable.
I would not recommend using the scraper with it, but if it works for you…
For a print that is stuck really hard, and flexing isn’t helping, I would try the freezer method before anything else.
I emailed them and here is the reply: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_ReTiIOnFd0RG45RXdVQmFYX1U
If you have damaged the surface of your magnetic build plate, like I have, [In fact, I have destroyed four of them] try this little trick. You can put blue tape on top of the magnetic surface, and it will function better than before. The model adheres to the blue tape just fine, and then you can flex it off as before, but the adhesion is not nearly as strong. The model pops off more easily.
I’ve now printed over 50 different items on the magnetic base and it still looks as good as the day it was taken out of the wrapper. I have used the japan scraper each time to remove the print and have yet to gouge or damage the base in anyway. Guess your mileage may vary.
Indeed. Some experienced users are finding it easy to damage the pads and others are having no issues at all. Odd.
So far the only damage I have sustained was early on when the toolhead came off from the feed tube being twisted and it melted a small hole in my pad. Other than that so far so good.
Flux Magnetic Print Plate
I just replaced my original build surface with a buildtak like surface from my friend Mark at Peopoly. Basically, I peeled off the old build surface and cleaned the magnet with alcohol to remove the extra adhesive. Then to avoid bubbles under the surface, I submerged the magnet in a pan with water and a drop of dish liquid (homemade application fluid).
I’ve only run one print on it so far, but no issues to report. I did notice that the new material was about twice as thick as the original, so maybe that will help with the bubbling and lifting issues that I had on the first one. I’ll let you know how it goes after a few more prints.
I just did this… but not all the steps. I had an older BuildTak 8 inch circle I still hadn’t used from a year ago. I just pulled the old surface off the new but damaged magnetic plate, made sure it was clean with alcohol swabs, stuck on the BuildTak. I cut off the couple of millimeters overhang but I don’t think I really needed to. I am on my 20th print now with great success! I have 5 damaged magnetic plates (I like redundancy. I like redundancy.) and ordered BuildTak for all of them.