Magnetic Build Surface Longevity


I still have a favor on a glass plate :+1:.


Yup, and if the print don’t jump of the plate willingly or with minor persuasion… the freezer cures it’s stubbornness :wink:


so if freeze my prints to take them off???


Yup. Basically what happens is when you use a glass plate and glue… you get that good a bond (if you have found the right glue) that the print does not want to come off that plate without breaking something. Which is a good thing, because it means zero warping due to the print lifting off the build plate. But not so good when trying to remove the darn thing. I suspect this is also because you get a vacuum seal on the glass as well (as when it does break free, it goes with a bang!).

When you stuck the glass plate and attached print in the freezer, the two materials expand and contract at different rates. So if you shove it in for an hour or so, and then pull it out, it usually just snaps off the glass.


@aw1 Borosilicate Glass plate please. Be safe. You can find them easily on eBay, Amazon, AliExpress, etc.

As far as glues, I have tested a LOT of different kinds, and found that really, just the cheap PVP glue stick works best. Sometimes I’ll use my pump spray bottle with just water and wood glue (which is PVP), that takes a bit longer to dry.

My mag plate is still in good shape, I’ve been switching back and forth between that and glass depending on what kind of finish I want.

@pfeerick, I have never had to wait an hour, usually 15-20 minutes maximum and pieces just fall right off. Sometimes I forget and let it go 30 minutes because the beer is in the refrigerator right below the freezer :slight_smile:


I’ve had really good luck with a light coat of hair spray. The parts stick well but not too well, and the glass plate cleans up with soap and water. Once sprayed, I make sure the coating is dry by using a small desktop fan to blow on it for a minute.


Now that’s an idea. I’ll have to give it a try if I ever replace the one I’ve got.


Patience of a Saint. :innocent: I can’t wait around all minute!


@BoozeKashi HAHA! neither can I! @Jimustanguitar I got after this print: but they are almost invisible after 30 mins and now there gone, just slapped the mat on the plate since that print and now it’s all gone!


I’m having the same “bubble” issue. I just did 4 small prints and now the center of my build plate has what looks like a small bubble. This is quite concerning. I actually love that build plate - it works extremely well.


i take it back, my new bubbles are not going away and the top looks a little old due to print marks! my new print mat is becoming bad again(really little) but you shouldn’t be paying $16 for a circle magnet with a ‘‘meltable’’ sheet of paper on it!
it going to be used more than once so you can’t but paper on there! look at this flux and jim(co-founder)!


haha then heat gun your prints :stuck_out_tongue: get them so hot that you can just pull them off!


Not the waiting to remove that I get impatient about, it’s the waiting for a slurry or hairspray to dry before starting a print that I get impatient about.

I have tried changing my workflow when using glass plate and it helps though. When I remove the print, I immediately prepare the plate, either with slurry or glue stick BEFORE I do anything else. That way when I am done tinkering on computer with the next print job, the plate is already prepped. That little adjustment has actually helped and I am using my slurry mix more now because of it.


oh ok, i get it now :expressionless: .


I actually noticed if I put 2 layers of glue on the glass print plate and let it dry before printing I can do more prints on the same spot and they still hold… smaller ones at least like benchy or marvins… I printed 4 benchys and 2 marvins on the same spot.

If I dont let it dry the first print rips the glue off with the print.


the problem is not the surface material but the clue between the layers I think.

even build tak melts if the nozzle goes to far down.


Yes, with glue stick I’ll get several prints, but they are not quite as smooth as the PVA slurry. Because that is a spray it is a super thin coating. But just redoing it before setting up next print usually gives enough dry time now. Just my routine that needed adjustment :slight_smile:


Speaking of heat guns, when I am using my glass plate and hairspray I make sure I have my small heat gun handy for quickly drying the sprayed plate. Takes about 30 seconds max and I don’t have to wait around.


Me + Heat Gun + PLA sitting around = Modern Art Masterpiece! :grin:


I love the build mat, but I have 4 holes made by the bed leveling step. I’ll use it until it wears out then back to glue stick I guess.