They replied to me and say they will take care of my issues. I will let you know.
Same here, I got replied stating that I was going to get refunded…just waiting to see if they do…weekend and all.
Well, I guess I had better complain then. I hadn’t bothered yet since it seemed that you all were not even getting a response. What exactly did you tell them? Just that it was bowed up in the middle? That’s pretty much my only complaint. I have gotten it to work most of the time by flexing it backward right before the print starts, but it still bows up and causes problems all the time. Any advice on how I should complain most effectively? lol
I just sent them about 3-4 emails about either send me a new one or refund me…they decided to go with the refund…still waiting on the bank to confirm if they did.
Cool. I sent them a strongly worded email discussing the problem and my attempts at a solution. When it works, it’s fantastic, but it’s almost more trouble than it’s worth. Here’s hoping for a refund, so I can dump the money into some other attempt, lol.
was refunded the money. Good to go and purchasing something worthwhile – Gecko Tek sounds like a nice thing to try…
I should get my GeckoTec plate Monday. As soon as I have it I’ll let you know if it’s worth the money.
Cool. I shall forgo purchase and await you recommendation @BjarneMatzen. Thanks.
I still have to wait either or, since my machine is currently collecting dust awaiting for repairs @Simon ).
OK @Kevin_Anthony, GeckoTek plate arrived today. I was pretty excited to give it a go as I have a very large square print that has been warping on just about every try with other means.
I was under the impression that the GeckoTek plate was magnetized, but that proved to be a pipe-dream (it might be a little bit, but on the smooth Flux build plate it moves around like a drunken sailor). So I first tried to lock it down with small magnets. BIG MISTAKE!! The head just kept being attracted to the magnets and at one point, the whole plate slipped in one corner and lodged itself on top of some of the magnets, causing the extruder to scrape a not so nice line in the surface before I could stop it.
In the end, I settled on old fashioned sticky tape:
The scrapes I made does not seam to have made too much of a lasting problem and thankfully are at the very extremes of the build. I’m a little annoyed that I have to tape it down every time, so I think I’ll reserve its use for difficult prints.
Overall, I’ll give it 4 (EDIT: 3.5, EDIT2: 3) out of 5 stars.
No warping (EDIT: limited warping, EDIT2: some warping)
Calibration works flawlessly
Have to stick it down with tape
PS: The print I have in progress has quite a few hours to go, so I can’t say how easy it is to remove a print yet. If it turns out to be a problem, then I’ll post an update.
EDIT: 3 hours in and some minor warping is beginning to show:
The least warps I’ve had on this print, but still somewhat disappointing .
4 hours in and this happens:
Now really disappointed. Probably still OK for smaller prints, but this is no better than glue-stick
Thanks for the report. I’ve since gone back to using gluestick on the metal plate as opposed to the Fleks. It was just too inconsistent with calibration and the first layer due to the warped center. I’ve yet to hear back from them about a refund or replacement though.
Speaking of large prints warping, I’ve basically decided that the Flux just isn’t capable of these type of prints right now. I’m looking at a Wanhoa Duplicator I3 as a second printer to get a heated bed and another more open machine to tinker with. It seems much better suited to large flat prints like these. The Flux is an engineering marvel, but it’s not quite right for some jobs and still has a few growing pains to get over. I love it to death, but it certainly can cause some headaches. Anyways, thanks again for the report. I think I’ll pass on the GeckoTek. It seems to be about the same as the Fleks (when it works).
Oh, and here’s the printer I mentioned: http://wanhaousa.com/products/duplicator-i3-steel-frame
You are a funny dude. How many edits have you done?
In regards to the warping, I am not 100% sure but temperature had a lot to do with it when I was printing. For example, I have a ceiling fan on low and that caused some of my prints to warp especially when doing long prints.
I was thinking about having the FLUX enclosed like I had seen someone do with acrylic. Not 100% sure but try printing the same thing at lower settings or less infill (looks like about 20%, you have).
Even though you are having problems, how is the first layer adhesion? Do you use glue (defeats the purpose) or not?
Thanks for the reply @BjarneMatzen.
@BjarneMatzen could you tell me which model you are trying in your attached pictures? I am using a G10 PCB type base plate with a few layers of glue stick and I don’t get warped prints. I printed a large base item, Roman Colloseum from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:962416, and I don’t have warped base. I would like to try your model to see if I will get the same warping as seen in your pictures.
By the way, I don’t know how to post a picture with a reply to show my print…
The first layer went down really well (apart from some inconsistent air pockets that you can actually see in the picture) but then as the print progressed the warping just got worse and worse. I was printing at 200 degrees, not sure about infill. I have some full-on work commitments for the rest of the week, but I will experiment some more next week.
Oh - and obviously no glue…
I tried with an old PLA stock (not the best!) I had and 1 corner up lifted by under 1mm, the diagonally opposite corner lifted by about 2mm. The other 2 corners were flat and well stuck to the G10 (~3mm thick Garolite) material I use as base-plate. It looks like I did not have enough uniform glue layer on the plate. Maybe I should have cleaned the old glue on the plate first and apply new layer but large “square” pieces are difficult to keep flat in general. You may try to modify your design while keeping the diagonal size under 170cm and adding some edges like shown in http://eleccelerator.com/prevent-corner-lifting-3d-printing-overkill-method/ . Also you can go through the following general 3D Print trouble info sites, to find some other solutions
so for know the solution is to put the puck on on the center, and when the calibration is over PAUSE the print job, then replace the puck with the FLEKS plate and un-PAUSE? and we are done?
But in this case the plate holders can’t be used, right?
They finally followed through. They went beyond what I requested to make up for poor response time. I think they are just under-staffed. I am happy.
I can’t really help you with using the puck @Kintar0 as they didn’t have any for sale when I ordered my plate. I think you’ll have to experiment.
I have been using the fleks plate holder that was created and haven’t used the puck for nothing at all. I am not sure if the reason why i don’t need it is because i was told to use the quarter trick first.
The quarter trick is simply to place a quarter in the middle during calibration. Once calibration is complete with the quarter in the middle, let the print continue and then immediately after it starts, cancel the print. Afterwards, i placed the fleks plate and used the fleks holder. Since then, it goes through the calibration as it normally does but with the fleks plate on top. The fleks plate tends to warp, so make sure that it is securely level. I used double sided tape, the glue stick, anything that assured me good adhesion to allow it to level correctly.
Hope that helps.