Any one know how the creators/FLUX-team feel about this solution?
Printer Head bottom cover started melting
Filament melting inside printerhead before nozzle
I haven’t had any issues with the USB-C cable yet, but I intend to print those support things out as well, for preventative measures as you so eloquently put it.
You will like it. The way of the cable is bend and curve that press on the plugs on both end at home position over times. The support piece will be distributed the stress around its base.
So far they have said, “very interesting” and “cool.” Nothing definitive. They have made no negative comment about it and no warnings. I am a friend of one of the designers and his comments to me personally have all been positive and nothing negative. But I haven’t pushed him to make a public statement about it. I leave that to the team. I feel comfortable that they are not against it.
I think Flux should be designed some kind of strain relief on the USB-C.
So, today I finally heard some clicking, and pretty constantly again. It was probably after about 15-20 hours with the filter alone. I changed out the filter and I’m starting up the print again. There were visible problems on the print from where the clicking started. I’ll try to post a picture soon.
A few have mentioned using a specific type of oil. Ideally, I’d like to use an oil that’s designed for this type of thing, and not a cooking oil. Amazon links appreciated.
I have been using WD40 squirted on the sponge with no issues. There was talk that WD40 was too thin but I have great success. The consensus is mineral oil like one finds at sewing machine stores.
My first try with oiled filament came out with a great result. It will need more testing to see if this has a side effect.
This is great news. Since we are disinclined to tear into our machines right now, I’d love to hear from you after an internal inspection. The only trouble is that this is very subjective. One person may put a LOT more or less oil than another. I’m really curious if there is any evident buildup or anything inside the feeder or the printhead. Without opening it up though, I have seen no evidence of using a couple drops of oil on my machine’s filament. Thanks for the followup.
There may be something else at work here, if WD40 performs as needed. WD40 is a water displacement product, not a lubricant. It also dries quickly compared to almost any other lubricant and as such may have reduced duration of use.
I’ve found that teflon based spray lubricants are extremely low viscosity and high durability. I have some Tri-flow that I’ll have to test, even though I’m not having the problems that lubrication appears to solve.
Last night, I use another new filament and had a bad print with new filament with the broken vacuum seal. I tried with the Dremel pad with no oil; it still had a bad print. The morning, I put some WD40 on the pad and see that would help. I’ll post the update later in the evening.
I’ve been used 8 different filaments and none of them give me the problems like this and last night incident that is tell me something about why the feeder doesn’t work well on some of filament. The clunking noise is mostly from the top feeder.
My initial reaction to this would be that it would make sense to have the connector recessed 5 to 10mm into both the head and the top of the flux, thereby having the head and the printer body perform the necessary strain relief. It would require some design changes at fabrication though and may shorten the travel distance (I haven’t measured it).
The alternative would be to have a structure similar to the support protruding below the top of the flux and above each toolhead which may interfere with installing and removing the bowden tube (on the printhead end at least).
WD40 is sold as a lubricant and works well on mechanical parts as a water-displacing alternative to simple mineral oil. The issue here is older filament gaining dust and moisture, so WD40 seems the logical choice to me.
Funny that you mention WD-40 and water
I did an innocent Instructable about table saws, and mentioned in a comment that you wouldn’t want to use WD-40 on the top because it could cause painted finishes to fisheye, nothing about water at all, and holy crap did it turn into a debate about WD-40 and water… Yikes! http://www.instructables.com/id/De-Rust-Your-Old-Table-Saw/
For wetting the Dremel pad on my printer, I’m not sure what I’ll do yet. I think I’ll keep going with a dry pad as long as I can still get away with it.
Glad it’s working for you all!
I finally was able to capture some visual evidence of what is happening to me when the filament feeder clicks. The model on the left had the clicking problem, I believe, starting at about 1 cm from the top. I was actually gone when it started, but it was clicking almost continuously when I arrived back home. The model on the right did have a bit of clicking at one point in time, until I applied more WD-40 to the dremel pad. You can see the clicking Just to the left near the top of IV.
If you look at the second image, you can see what the clicking is doing to the infill as well. My infill is normally very pretty.
Exactly the same issues and effects I was having before the oiler/filter came along.
Same here. I’ll not be going back to using a dry filterless filament ever again on the Flux. Evidence seems to speak for itself. Thanks for sharing.
I’m agree with Jimustanguitar comments. @Simon Will the coating oil on a filament be reducing friction/grip of drive gear?
If you print with a lot of clean PLA, it might be able to wipe out the oil.
Downside: If you are going to print flexible material, lubrication make it worse.