I think there is hit and miss on the filament feeder while assembling from production line.My Flux has been printing in the last 10 days and hasn’t had any issue from feeder with three different manufacture filaments. Hopefully Flux team will correct the assembling process on this part on the next batch for the other backers.
I agree. I would expect this to be a bigger issue than it has been if it was a consistent error. Consider you self lucky I guess, but considering the results of @Milkdog up there, you may still consider the filter just to keep the dirt out of your machine. It has certainly convinced me to leave it, even if the feeder does start working normally.
Are you using only the Flux filament? Mine started with other filaments. Then the issue of humidity where I live seems to be an issue to the storing of filament over time. I think you may be right that there are some factory inconsistencies. But then other printers are also showing veryible need for oiler/filers with those who need them swearing by them no matter what printer brand is discussed. I think there may be environmental favored as well. Many many variables. For me: it works and noticibly so.
I definitely use Dremel pad as a preventive maintenance. I also printed and used the little USB-C holder design from one of our backer, whose had the error of tool head reset. I think all backers should have that as for PM as well.
@Michael_Haggard - I’ve been trying to store my filament in vacuum sealed bags along with those silica gel packets to help prevent humidity issues. I tried using my food vacuum sealer, but the bags for it were too small for my 1 kg spools. I ended up getting these larger vacuum bags, and it looks like I can store at least 2-3 spools (maybe 4) in the medium size bags - http://amzn.to/1psO9vm, and I’m going to look at ordering these - http://amzn.to/1X4tfNV. Never actually ordered them before. Just currently using the ones that came with my spools.
Any one know how the creators/FLUX-team feel about this solution?
Printer Head bottom cover started melting
Filament melting inside printerhead before nozzle
I haven’t had any issues with the USB-C cable yet, but I intend to print those support things out as well, for preventative measures as you so eloquently put it.
You will like it. The way of the cable is bend and curve that press on the plugs on both end at home position over times. The support piece will be distributed the stress around its base.
So far they have said, “very interesting” and “cool.” Nothing definitive. They have made no negative comment about it and no warnings. I am a friend of one of the designers and his comments to me personally have all been positive and nothing negative. But I haven’t pushed him to make a public statement about it. I leave that to the team. I feel comfortable that they are not against it.
I think Flux should be designed some kind of strain relief on the USB-C.
So, today I finally heard some clicking, and pretty constantly again. It was probably after about 15-20 hours with the filter alone. I changed out the filter and I’m starting up the print again. There were visible problems on the print from where the clicking started. I’ll try to post a picture soon.
A few have mentioned using a specific type of oil. Ideally, I’d like to use an oil that’s designed for this type of thing, and not a cooking oil. Amazon links appreciated.
I have been using WD40 squirted on the sponge with no issues. There was talk that WD40 was too thin but I have great success. The consensus is mineral oil like one finds at sewing machine stores.
My first try with oiled filament came out with a great result. It will need more testing to see if this has a side effect.
This is great news. Since we are disinclined to tear into our machines right now, I’d love to hear from you after an internal inspection. The only trouble is that this is very subjective. One person may put a LOT more or less oil than another. I’m really curious if there is any evident buildup or anything inside the feeder or the printhead. Without opening it up though, I have seen no evidence of using a couple drops of oil on my machine’s filament. Thanks for the followup.
There may be something else at work here, if WD40 performs as needed. WD40 is a water displacement product, not a lubricant. It also dries quickly compared to almost any other lubricant and as such may have reduced duration of use.
I’ve found that teflon based spray lubricants are extremely low viscosity and high durability. I have some Tri-flow that I’ll have to test, even though I’m not having the problems that lubrication appears to solve.
Last night, I use another new filament and had a bad print with new filament with the broken vacuum seal. I tried with the Dremel pad with no oil; it still had a bad print. The morning, I put some WD40 on the pad and see that would help. I’ll post the update later in the evening.
I’ve been used 8 different filaments and none of them give me the problems like this and last night incident that is tell me something about why the feeder doesn’t work well on some of filament. The clunking noise is mostly from the top feeder.
My initial reaction to this would be that it would make sense to have the connector recessed 5 to 10mm into both the head and the top of the flux, thereby having the head and the printer body perform the necessary strain relief. It would require some design changes at fabrication though and may shorten the travel distance (I haven’t measured it).
The alternative would be to have a structure similar to the support protruding below the top of the flux and above each toolhead which may interfere with installing and removing the bowden tube (on the printhead end at least).
WD40 is sold as a lubricant and works well on mechanical parts as a water-displacing alternative to simple mineral oil. The issue here is older filament gaining dust and moisture, so WD40 seems the logical choice to me.
Funny that you mention WD-40 and water
I did an innocent Instructable about table saws, and mentioned in a comment that you wouldn’t want to use WD-40 on the top because it could cause painted finishes to fisheye, nothing about water at all, and holy crap did it turn into a debate about WD-40 and water… Yikes! http://www.instructables.com/id/De-Rust-Your-Old-Table-Saw/
For wetting the Dremel pad on my printer, I’m not sure what I’ll do yet. I think I’ll keep going with a dry pad as long as I can still get away with it.
Glad it’s working for you all!