Chiller Questions

Has anyone successfully added a chiller to a Beambox Pro? If so, can you provide details? What chiller unit? Settings? Etc…

I was thinking of using a Cloudray S&A Industrial Water Chiller 220V CW3000TG Tank capacity 9L Small Laser Chiller for Cooling 60W/80W CO2 Engraving Cutting Machine so would be VERY interested in replies on this one!!

N0, sorry. I recently bought a Cloudray Industrial Water Chiller 110V CW5202DH 2 Inlets&Outlets For Cooling Two Laser Tube CO2 Engraving Cutting Water Cooling (CW- 5202DH 110V) through Amazon… I bought this one because it had two output ports so I could connect to both my beam box pro and my acrylic bender simulataneously. Really want to hook it up I just haven’t figure out how to do so. I don’t want to bypass the Beam Box Pro tank so I don’t always have to use the chiller. I also don’t want to push the Beam Box Pro too hard. So I’ve momentarily “frozen” myself with doubt. Would love to know where to hook it in, how, and where do I access those input output points. Cheers, Jim

Hi , after a summer here in Sydney when we reached 40 degrees my beambox pro kept overheating . I bought one of the Cloudray CW 5200.
I took out the original tank and connected to the existing tubes using the same clear piping .
The water never gets above 18 degrees no matter what sort of day or work load of machine .
Never regretted buying it .

Terry, not to be a bore, where and how did you find/remove the original tank (was it from a BBox Pro (as is mine)? I’ve poked around considerably working with the mfr to get my machine running (mostly right side, power supply, electronics, etc). Never saw a tank (although I’m sure I can find it… guessing its in the back (under the CO2 tube) towards the right left side of the machine as observed from the back (tube side)). While I haven’t studied it yet, I don’t know how to get in there.

Yes , the tank is removable from the back , it only just comes out of the hole provided.
Once I got it out I found it marked with inlet and outlet so then connected the clear tubes to my chiller.
Once the unit is connected the water flows so well that you never have to worry about air bubbles again .

Thank you… so I just need the courage to get in there and do it. For some reason, despite having the chiller and being pretty mechanically proficient, I’ve hesitated even though I’ve had several “overheating” experiences. In the back of my mind was concern that either I would forget to engage/turn on the chiller and, without a tank overheat or that there would be a “fight” between the chiller’s pump and the Beam Box Pro’s pump to the detriment of the system. OK, you’ve given me the courage… next time in the shop I put in the chiller; don’t try and figure out how to retain the tank; and simply ignore the Beam Box Pro’s water pump (I’ve assumed that was the little plastic round gizmo near the CO2 tube about mid-point in the back. I’m hopeful a benefit of this is that I’ll never have to again go behind where the CO2 tube is to fill water but simply keep the chiller full/mostly full. In order to ensure I don’t run the BBP without the chiller I will put them both, together with my exhaust boost motor, on the same power strip… turn on the power strip and everything turns on and avoids the issue of BBP on, exhaust motor and/or chiller not on.

AS AN ASIDE: I bought an AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S4, Quiet 4” Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller - Ventilation Exhaust Fan from Amazon and installed it near the beginning of my 30’ run of 4” metal duct work to exhaust the BBP (and other machines) from my CAD workshop out of the basement… works great. BBP’s exhaust didn’t have nearly enough oomph to exhaust effectively over that distance. Recommended but the speed controller is worthless… simply run it at aa very quiet high speed.

Please let us know what you find after install. Pictures and instructions can be helpful. I wish that Flux would chime in every once in awhile so we didn’t have guess and gamble our way through improving our machines…

Can I guess that the water inlet side to theBBP is the left end (as observed from the back) of the CO2 tube and the outlet side (return to the chiller) is on the right end of the CO2 tube (where the laser exits). I suspect if I simply run the chilled water through the tube I can avoid all potential leak issues related to all the other tubing, tank, etc. Of course, that bypasses wherever the thermometer/thermostat is located. Am I better simply bypassing the water tank leaving everything else in place and running the chiller water through the whole system? Of course, that counts on the thermostat not being in the tank. Oh, such quandaries. I’ll try to remember to remember what I do and report back.

The black round thing near the tube with wires is a flow sensor , don’t take that out as sometimes I’ve forgotten to turn on the chiller and then the machine detects no flow , stops and reminds you with an error to turn it on .
After 18 months now it is so automatic , turn on laser , turn on chiller.
I have also added extra ventilation system .
I have also changed the air pump to a larger volume one and it cuts ply now with less energy , faster and the cuts are a lot cleaner.
Where are you Jim???

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Thanks for the info… very helpful. I thought the flow sensor was the water pump. Any idea where the thermometer/themostat is located?

I’ve avoided the “forgetting part” by plugging everything in to a power strip and I turn the power strip on… everything works.

I believe my supplemental vent fan has made a significant increase to the airflow out of the BBP. But I can’t say I’ve noticed it make any difference in quality or strength of cuts other than getting the fumes out of the BBP and therefore the room, quicker. The wood burning was resulting in a considerable smell in my small shop. Much improved.

I’m in northern VA, USA… near DC.


Jim ,
When referring to the air pump I was referring to the pump that pumps air to the laser nozzle

Ahh, got it. I have never considered that option or the results. I’ll look into that as I can see the value.

Another upgrade: I was cutting acrylic with the protective paper/adhesive when the hot flame, caused by the highly flammable adhesive, melted my air hose where it attached to the lens housing. I replaced the melted hose with 1/4” steel quick disconnect fittings that encapsulated the air hose connecting each quick disconnect fitting leading from the lens to the camera mount. I’ve had no subsequent problems with air hose melting. I now remove the protective paper and it’s flammable adhesive layer from the acrylic before cutting.

I was told by a distributor that the flow sensor is also the thermocouple. They sent the attached photo…

Nikonwalker… can you provide some pictures to show how you set yours up? It might help with the courage to dive in… lol. My chiller is arriving tomorrow.

Also, nikonwalker, can you tell us what air pump you replaced and what you replaced it with? Maybe some photos, links, etc…?

My Cloudray should arrive in a couple of days but am a bit apprehensive fitting it to the BBpro.
I’m in Sydney - can you make contact 0417 246 010
Thanks in advance Tony

Where did nikon go? Sounds like his setup is perfect! Pics to help???