BuildTak on the print bed


#1

Has anyone tried BuildTak on their print bed yet? I use it on my Prusa printer and love it. Are there any issues using it on the Flux? If not, I’m ready to order some round BuildTak…


#2

I’ve heard a few gripes about its durability over time. If you run production, I guess it does have a finite service life.

The other gripe I’ve heard is that it sticks too much :slight_smile: SeeMeCNC has a part stuck on buildtak in their office that nobody could get to come loose until the glass chipped and peeled off the build tack that way.

I’ve been meaning to try PEI. Lots of other folks have said great things about it.


#3

Yeah, it definitely does stick. :slight_smile: I’ve been printing PETG on my Prusa printer with BuildTak and it works great. Prints stick well, but are still easy to remove. I haven’t tried BuildTak on an unheated bed though - I guess that’s mainly why I was curious about it on the Flux. I didn’t know about PEI though. Looks promising too.

I’m expecting a shipping notice for my Flux any minute now. I’ll probably try PEI & BuildTak on it to see what works better.

Come on shipping notice…


#4

@GrouchoDuke ,

hi i’ve been using the BuildTak sheet after only one try on the naked bed. :-0
Spend some money on it as i noticed dislodging of the prints is a problem and
also when not willing to use a Raft the prints seem to bend upwards on the edges.

Started with a full bed of BuildTak with Zoffset= -0,06 and relative success but not
overwelmed, had some issue’s in sticking still and used even the supplied glue.
Destroyed the Buildtak with the supplied Scrape tool (stupid me), removed the BuildTak
and cleaned the printbed naked again, results still unpredictable. Now made a bold move
and used a 16,5mm diameter BuildTak exactly placed @ the center and the FluX
calibrates on the Steel plate on the edges and on the Buildtak at center. Z offset= -0,00.
Rafts come out perfect and so does the prints all sticks perfectly.
One additional change incrrease the Skirt to 4 and 2 layers as it seems the start of the
print job sometime’s the filament takes some while to appear, Stop and start the print job
one time extra useally does the trick…

I hope the above helps some of you and does any one have inside info
on the actual calibration process in reference to the Z offset.

greeting from Holland.
Rene.


FLUX Delta - FAQ
#5

I just installed a sheet of FabLam last night. I didn’t get my Z offset dialed in enough to give it a real test, but hopefully I’ll have results to compare to your tonight or something later this week.


#6

That’s great to hear @ReneZuidam. I have BuildTak on mine – also after only a few prints without it. I haven’t had great luck so far, but I’ve only tried Z offsets as low as -0.05. It sounds like something bigger (i.e. more negative) would give the same results you’re seeing.

I’ll keep stepping the z offset more negative and see how things go. I have BuildTak on my Prusa and I love it. The heated bed plus BuildTak make things stick perfectly every time. I’d love it if I could make the Flux as reliable (without glue or tape every print).

Increasing the skirts should help some. I also notice that the filament doesn’t get flowing well on the first print. I have a pre-print script on my Prusa that squirts out a bunch of filament in a line near the corner of my bed. That has really helped my prints there. Since adding that, I don’t use skirts anymore on that printer.

I haven’t added that on my Flux yet, but here’s the GCode I use on my Prusa (NOTE!! Don’t use this as-is on a Flux – it’ll tell the head to move off the bed)

M82 ; use absolute distances for extruder
G92 E0 ; zero the extruder position
G1 X180 Y0 Z5 F900; added to make sure the head & BLTouch don’t hit anything
G1 X180 Y0 Z.35 F900;
G1 X140 Y0 Z.10 E15 F225;
G1 X140 Y25 Z5 F3600;
M400 ; wait until we get there
G92 E0 ; zero the extruder position


#7

I’ve not tried BuildTak, however I’ve read of people who say that they have the same result with self-adhesive chalkboard.

Has anyone tried it?


#8

Interesting idea… Do you have a lead on a ‘known working’ source for this material? Perhaps there’s a specific brand or model that tends to work better than the others.


#9

I have using BuildTak. It works well with hair styling spray.
No more glue stick and blue tape.
1st layer stacking enough and easy to clean up by some hot water in kitchen.
Also nothing any problem with auto Calibration process.
Please try. :slightly_smiling:

FYI nGen filament with BuildTak


#10

I should have some chalk board here later today. I can’t tell you whether or not it works yet, but this is the stuff that I ordered:


#11

I have installed BuildTak on my Fabrikator Mini and it works great! I ordered some for the Flux and I’ll be picking it up at my mailbox later today…will be interested to see how it does!


#12

If anybody’s curious, I didn’t have very good luck with the chalkboard material. It may work well with some heat, but on a room temperature bed it didn’t work the way I was hoping. I’ve switched back to glue-stick on the steel plate.


#13

I have been using 3M reposition-able 75 spray adhesive directly on the smooth side of the steel plate and wiping between prints with 90% isopropyl alcohol with pretty good success. The adhesive can be removed entirely with a solvent if it gets too clumpy or does not work for you. Some of the printing settings for the first layer can be crucial depending on your design.


#14

I heard a new one the other day… Mod Podge
Fortuitously, I found it on clearance at Home Depot later the same day, so I picked some up.
Nothing to report yet - results coming soon.


#15

Could you tell me, how do you avoid melt BuildTak while calibration process running? The hotend have 170C and in place where hotend touch the base, leaves melted points.


#16

Sorry for this late reply.
Regarding hotend 170 C.
Yes, BuildTak noticed should be not touch 170C but there are no matter with me.
Nothing any problem with FLUX calibration. No melt with such a short time.
Don’t worry.


#17

Thank you! Now I don’t worry about melting BulldTak after your answer.
Could you tell how do you serve/maintain BuildTak after many prints? I saw in YouTube one men sanding the BuildTak.


#18

Hi, Usually I have cleanup by 100% alcohol each time after printings.
And I am using kitchen dish drop. And washing with hot water.
Because of I ave use Hair set splay all time then :slight_smile:


#19

Very similar when I used it… one layer of glue stick on the BuildTak and wash it off with hot water and soap. I could not get it to stick well on the BuildTak without anything and always had quite a bit of warping.

These days however I print everything one the glas plate with 1 layer of glue.

If someone would ask me now I would say “don’t buy buildtak, save the money and get a glas plate”


#20

Here’s Buildtak’s page on use and maintenance: https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!forum/buildtak

They don’t recommend using isopropyl alcohol greater than 75% strength.

Here’s another thorough review of this material: http://3dprintingforbeginners.com/buildtak-review/