Oh god no. Please say you did not submerge a part of your brand new printer into boiling water. Especially a PTFE tube with a 1.75mm internal diameter tolerance.
Not boiling water, especially 80° calm water, immerge 3 sec, dryning, wait few second, rubbed it, let’s it take a form, renew operation after 10 min. And this 3 time. I’m not crazy !
Cable guide have the same from before traitment but just more smooth (lees resistance) and filament pass easy inside. But since i’ve rotate power cable from 180° i’ve more pupping.
and for information PTFE resists deformation up to 327 °, event when you use your printed, Your cable would melt
All you have to do is twist the PTFE tube before you tighten the fittings and it will hold a nice ‘S’ curve.
That is why they were telling you to turn the end of the mini USB also, an 180-degree twist in the cable puts it in a nice curve so it coils on itself as the effector goes up and down.
At this point, you will have to just go through the process of elimination with support, it may be tedious, but they will solve it. It is possible that you have a part defect, it can happen. Building complex machines and shipping them around the world, things can go wrong. In 3D printing, things DO go wrong, all the time.
So for recap :
- I’ve replace micro SD
- I use largely lubricate (1/2 container)
- I’ve dry exceed lubricate
- I’ve inverse rodes and balls
- Iv’e try differents position for cable guide and power toolhead cable
- iv’e invert (180°) the both many times
- i’ve rudded guide cable for filament (more smooth)
But i’ve always 1 to 4 pooping balls effect ! And my magnetic field is domaged by manipulation (but necessary even i can’t calibrate auto level)
See news movies :
Your printer is able to pass calibration . I recommend that you should roll back FS and delta firmware to earlier version which doesn’t have a
movement test. That might help you on printing temporarily until Flux team have a solution for your problem. If you don’t have them, I will upload them tonight. Let me know.
Older versions are still available on the download page… just use the dropdowns to pick an earlier version… say say 0.7.1 of flux studio, and roll back to 1.6.20 of the firmware. Plus check what version of the toolhead firmware is installed… that can be the latest 1.2.10.
and @Claymenia, as goldensnake said, calibration was completing… it just appears that the movement test at the start of the print is jinxing something.
Your videos are hard to watch, you move around too much. Keep camera in one spot for each video, but I think I see what is going on, and the guys are right, you need to roll back FLUX Studio for now.
Test #4 @ 1:07 It is the Mini USB cable that is pulling back on the front left and rear con rods when at full extension during the circle movement. The Delta+ has a redesigned cable and it appears to be stiffer than the original. If you slow that video down and watch from 1:07 - 1:11 you can see the stress and release from that cable.
I would not even bother with any of the 0.7 releases at this point. Go to the RIGHT side of the downloads page and get 0.6.3 under the Latest Stable Releases. You are passing calibration, and 0.6.3 doesn’t have the racetrack movement. As long as you don’t try to print anything at max bed size, you should be able to get started until FLUX Support gets it sorted out.
Thx for purpose, i’ve no answer from Flux team since…
But do you really try on printing with previous FS and firmware versions?
i try tonight, do’nt have time today
Hi, I just received my Delta+ on 03/14/2017 after ordering it last year on 05/10/2016 (yup almost a whole year waiting)
I thought the worst was behind me having to had waited sooo long when I finally received it.
& I’ve been trying to hook it up ever since receiving it. Turning it on, resetting it, formatting a thumb drive to put the driver onto, uninstalling , reinstalling, relocating my computer set up to be the recommended 5 meters near the modem, trying to connect to the Wi-Fi over & over. Ect Jumping through all the loops.
So now I got back on here because I can’t figure out what I been missing. Then I find your post describing Exactly what mine has been doing the whole time since taking it out of the box & I haven’t even read half of this post regarding fixes, But I’m already Not looking forward to all these extra thing I may have to do.
Gawd! I am not looking forward if I have to do all these extra steps & that’s just to connect the printer, heaven forbid I have trouble actually printing or parts break down when I eventually get it working.
It is late & I work the next few days. Thanks for this post, Im have to set time to go over all of this info & see what my next moves are.
If you have the exact same issue, then it is probably that the Delta has had a nasty bump whilst in the shipping, and lke Claymenia, the microSD card has been ejected. However, it is best to work through that as a support ticket, as they can authorise you to open the printer if that is the case so your warranty is still intact
I just popped on to link to this video I recorded last night to show what the movement test should look like, and perhaps give Claymenia some idea as to how the PTFE and power leads can be positions to avoid unnecessary strain.
Thx for help but you’re in late
So, after more and more rubbed (on one completly day !!!) the both cable, i’ve passed test movement… BUT :
- if i’ve the magnetic plate, delta try to calibrate lvl without success (and more time with an infinite loop)
- when i remove magnetic plate, i arrive to calibrate lvl BUT for a test sending of 20mm diameter, she printed 20cm diameter !!! Wahou !
Someone have an idea ?
Well, in that case…!!!
Interesting… maybe the magnetic plate is too soft for the current calibration sequence to work? (guessing here as none of use Delta users have one yet). Since the Delta requires pressure to be put on the pads under the build plate (those three rubber stoppers under the metal build plate are pressure sensors / switches), if the magnetic build plate is too flexible, the position of the head changes each time it calibrates an axis, so it has to go around again… and never gets two consistent results in order to pass the calibration.
Is the 20 cm diameter thing a 3/4 circle around the print bed? If so, that is normal… it happens at the start of print in prints since v0.7.4 of Flux Studio, and is designed to purge the print head, also eliminating the need for a skirt. It should do that, and then do whatever print you gave it.
Thanks, I’ll check it out & try to send a support ticket when I can.
Ok, I’ve rubbed again cable. replace cable. I’ve add lubricate. I’ve try many autolevel calibration with clearing data, and movement test. I’ve try with differents files and let’s toolhead make her movement and test, and finally i’ve finish a movement test without popping and finally i’ve successfull printed a 20mm cube !!!
But i’ve really a problem with toolhead calibration when print plate is used ! maybe the print plate is too smooth ? idon’t know but auto level calibration try and try again, and after many time she arrived to calibrate the toolhead !
but seriously i’ve take 1 week for use her… !!!
Hard, seriously hard !
Welcome to 3D printing club . It take me one year to set and fine tune a almost perfect printer profile for Flux printer for Simplify3D.
Whooho! Success at last! I really do think that the magnetic print bed is just too soft… but that is only a guess as we have yet to get our greasy mitts on one! Hopefully a workaround can be developed soon… maybe by calibrating against the metal base, and then offsetting for the thickness of the magnetic print bed?
I just looked in the Trophy Room, I did not see your Cube in there
As several of us told you, it is not easy at first, but it does get easier, and it does take time. Every setting can have an effect on 10 others, and outside factors you may not think about at first can cause serious problems too.
3D printing is a wonderful mix of art, science, and a bit of magic, (and sometimes, just pure dumb luck.)