Tried printing with ABS yet?


#1

Has anyone tried using ABS filament for printing yet? I have some sitting in a box that I just ordered, but I’m brand new to 3D printing, and looking to someone that has a bit more experience to help give me some tips.


#2

everything I’ve read says you can’t print ABS on an unheated bed. I have a Cube 3rd gen printer that supports PLA and ABS and has an unheated bed. The bed is some material resembling ceramic onto which one applies their proprietary liquid glue for both PLA and ABS. With ABS, there is a “sidewalk” option, which I have seen described elsewhere as a brim. It’s a single layer that extends about 25mm from the print and purportedly creates enough force to prevent the ABS from lifting.

I’ve done one print using this method, on a part that was about 35mm high. It did warp, but I think it’s because the sidewalk/brim at that point on the bed had been missed by the glue.

Take this information at face value, as I have very little experience beyond that described above, although the PLA prints have been working fine on the Cube3.

I’m looking forward to having the same luck with my Flux Delta after it arrives next Tuesday! Yipee!


#3

ABS contracts when it cools, much more than PLA does. If you don’t have a heated bed, the bottom layers will contract enough that they break loose from the bed. The purpose of a heated bed is to maintain a temperature that’s low enough to let the plastic solidify, but high enough that it doesn’t contract and break loose.

You might be able to give it a try with PEI or BuildTak or something like that, but out of the box, and unheated, I highly doubt that you’ll get ABS to work.

Try PETG, perhaps?


#4

Something that you might try… Print a PLA raft, then change filament to ABS and see if that sticks… I have no idea, but it’s worth a go if you’re determined to make ABS work.


#5

You can print ABS on an unheated bed… poorly.

However, generally when you do it prints poorly at best. (There are exceptions. I have had some good prints on a non-heated bed.) First layer adhesion will be a problem, and if it’s not really really stuck on there, the contraction from the layers above will cause issues, and pull it right off of the bed. Frankly, even with a heated bed, ABS is not as good as PLA. It’s a bit of an exercise in annoyance in general with warping unless it’s got something keeping it warm, so it cools uniformly. I at one point had a space heater configured to provide that, but it was a paint to get close to right. If you were going to print using ABS in the flux, I’d build an enclosure and heat that. (Or buy a heated bed, an arduino (or small Atmega chip), thermistor, transistor and power supply that’s externally controlled for a heated bed.)

Sources: Other printers, with and without heated bed.


#6

Have you try this filament?

It seem some more advantage than ABS. And Heat resistant up to 130c deg. with Anneal process.
looks cool. I have ordered from http://3dprintersolutions.us/ today.
I will post when I test it.


#7

I’ve always been curious about the “premium” mixtures of PLA. Less thermal shrink is the main advantage that I would hope for, especially without a heated bed… Have you tried it, how does it print?


#8

i’ve orderd in today.
it takes few week i guess…
but i’ve tested nGen filament by colorfabb.


it works well.


#9

So far, all answers here are from mere theoreticists … e. g. about the necessity of a heated print bed due to greater shrinkage of ABS etc. pp. The OP’s question is unanswered yet.

So nobody printed ABS with the Flux 3D printer yet, right?

I tried - and did not succeed. The clear ABS 1,75 mm filament I got simply does not pass the nozzle at all. Maybe because I didn’ manage to adjust the nozzle temperature to 240°C - the Flux software seems limited to 220°C when changing filament.

The filament originally distributed with the printer was PLA, obviously. After cleaning the nozzle PLA ran through again fine.

Unfortunately the nozzle is a bit difficult to remove. There is not enough space for a wrench as long as the plastic cover is in place, and when removed there is neither space enough for holding the heater when applying torque to the nozzle 8-(.

A heated print bed is no rocket science - but how to increase nozzle temperature so that ABS melts an passes through?


#10

Actually, the heated print bed has not been successfully achieved yet either as far as I know.