Red parts printed on the Flux, silver parts on the Leapfrog HS from work because of the build size.
Test print completed.
White PLA polymaker
Red/ painted white is Flux PLA
results are pretty close to Flux branded PLA
210mm tall… that is the max?
No supports, I have had really bad luck with not being able to get them off. So… I know others are using other software to output files with smart supports etc.
So without the supports I am missing a little chin, elbow and arm/hand.
Basically standard medium quality settings but with my off brand polymaker PLA this model used about 200 grams it seems. The spool is graded.
Loads of knocking from the feeding system… Not terrible effect on the layers though. About the average for these models from the london museum.
Dragon door knocker from thingiverse…
the supports on the model were too weak. Thus the ring failed to print properly.
I have to fix that .2 Z issue.
It basically looks good though. Medium quality
The white PLA does not make this easy to read of course.
It would need a lot of work I think.
If I can do it in wax there is a place that will cast it in metal for me.
I am curious about the wax for 3d printers.
I really must learn more about the file creation side and editing STL files
Trying to make model planes for my son. Two halves will never fit together.
I had a raft. It snapped off easily with the new support settings I read on here.
For a part like you show, I have successfully used a hair dryer to soften the part and finger-pressure it back to place.
I guess that is fair enough. I have had warping on larger items as well. I will have to try making them with the raft…
Does making the raft thicker make a difference?
Not too many of us on this forum are in Asia I think. Thanks for always replying.
Floating around for 2 days now on the thingiverse site makes me thing that the quality of print out of the Flux Delta is actually really great.
Is this accurate? Other users with other printers agree? I am totally new to 3D printing.
Using the same models (STL files) I seem to be getting much better results than the posted images from others who have printed the same files on that site.
Lately I use Cura engine in FS with raft, it comes off easily but you have no control on the number of raft layers. The raft layer adjustment is only working for Slic3r engine. However, I don’t use Slic3r anymore for items requiring raft since I cannot detach the raft easily.
I find some shapes are just more prone to this pull up warping. The raft makes no difference. Base adhesion is the key but I haven’t found a 100% reliable way to stop it. I just printed 9 light houses. Half warped at the base. Not bad but the other half are flat. I did nothing different each time. All had thick wide rafts.
I currently have five other printers besides the FLUX and I will say that the print quality of the FLUX is at the top of the list. With Simplify3D and a glass plate / gluestick, the output is truly remarkable.
I’ve noticed a lot of other people mention Simplify3D, would you say that is a required addition to achieve high quality prints with the FLUX? I’m not excited to spend $150 to get the printer to work well. My expectation is that the FLUX Studio software would be enough, but I’ve been having troubles since early on. Having said that, I’m convinced that my problems aren’t related to slicing. To return to my original question, I’m curious about the value-add of Simplify3D compared to prints made using FS.
In my experience Simplify3D has been worth the money. If you are on a budget and happy with what the Slic3r engine in FLUX Studio gives you, then by all means stick with that and save your money for filament. S3D has a lot of flexibility and you can do things with it that are not available in other packages. When you are ready for the next step, it’s the only option IMHO.
Check this out… There are 3 parts to the series and they show what can be done with the software.