That’s crazy. I pay about 23usd for hatchbox
fair enough. 3D printing is still fairly new to Japan though.
Usually they ship things here then resell or occasionally ship direct from the US to the final buyer.
It is quite the scam, I noticed this recently. Basically it is a tax on people who can’t read or use the US amazon site in English. Plus the exchange rate being all over the place never helps.
Right I will consider getting enough to make the shipping worthwhile
When I lived in Taiwan I got PLA for the same price as in the USA. Just a month ago. I wonder if there is a better source for you.
I am seeing prices closer to 20usd equivalent for makerbot PLA. I hope you can find better prices. And it seems to be on Prime. If you are a prime member, shipping is free.
I see the same scams attempted here in Thailand. The trouble with Amazon, even with Prime, is that the shipping may be free but you get a very big hit by Customs Duty fees. Sometimes nearly as much as the item price, so it just isn’t worth it.
What has worked out much better for me (and my wallet) is making connections with a few of the local shops. They import in bulk and are very fairly priced. 1Kg spools for about 18-20 US. The US brands are the only ones that are hard to come by, again, because the duty fees are so ridiculous. (In most of Asia, US=U$)
The upside is that the filament they import here from China is quite often produced in the exact same factories that produce most of the big name brand filaments and the results are identical. Since the local shops are also enthusiasts and printer jockey’s themselves, they stick with the good quality imports as they find them so the overall stock is very good.
I can’t say for sure, but I would imagine that was the same situation in Taiwan, and Japan shouldn’t be much different if you can avoid the scams. At this stage of 3D Printing, community is key and having good relationships with fellow enthusiasts and supply chain is critical. Most of the manufacturing of the printers themselves, and the PLA, ABS, etc. is done in Asia, and you would think those of us here would have the advantage, but at the consumer level it doesn’t quite work out that way. Most of the information, technology, software, etc. is in English language, so it really levels the playing field.
I would love to know more about the 3D Printing situation in China if anyone has insight. Most of the clones/replicas, and even some of the name brands are produced (and sold) there, and you can spend all day browsing filaments on sites like Alibaba too. As a nearby outsider looking in, it would seem that a lot more mainstream there.
I forgot about alibaba I will look there too.
You are really spot on with the issues that the products for export versus the products for domestic consumption.
hello, does anyone have a 3D model (STL) of the flux printer itself ?
Thanks in advance
This is, what i call a functional 3d print:
The bcn3d moveo, fully printed on our beloved flux
great job , looks to be moving pretty smooth
great video, like spiff said it moves very smoothly.
I love this print. Is the model available for sharing?
It’s from “my mini factory” under their “scan the world” section. Called Mawari Horse.
I just printed out this Knife Block Deathstar. Created for a perfect fit on the Flux, printed hollow in one piece in 18 hours, used 300g filament in different layer heights (simplify3d). Available at Thingiverse:
I’m sorry for not getting back to you sooner on this, this was printed at medium quality. as with anything there were quite a few failures but nothing that stopped progress (mostly due to some minor curling on the larger items). In total it probably took me a week working on it on and off, probably close to 24 hours total accounting for bad prints/redo’s. I have not seen the Wind Energy Stored in Gravity project! i’ll be sure to give it a try! thank you for the link!
Lately i’ve been playing with the laser etcher a bit more. it’s really impressive how far it’s come since release!
I have also done some pokemons for my daughter:
Your laser etchings are fantastic. What was your settings? What file-format did you use?
Thank you, honestly i just used the settings appropriate for the material (IE: wood for wood, leather for leather) what i think made the biggest differences was doing the foil trick to jump all contacts (previously my laser would turn off prematurely or the print would stop) and accurately measuring the height of my objects with a digital caliper.
As for file formats i jump between PNG and Jpeg and i almost always tweak the slider to get the shading detail (it seems to want to register a lot of lighter colors as transparent)
I’ve actually etched a LOT more (again mostly pokemon) probably 20+ in all into wood including evolution charts (made from three pics i get from just a google image search) which she really likes. I’ve also printed probably 20+ low poly pokemon but i didn’t want to spam the thread haha. my Flux is pretty much constantly going lol.