the shop will come back in the future. I wrote them an e-mail and asked for the electronic parts. If you want to try, write them at firstname.lastname@example.org.
There are some really nice prints being shown here. I want to share some pics too, but just too busy having fun printing.
When your 5 year old is just getting into Star Wars, and he says “I want a Millenium Falcon”…
Printed without supports. Only raft.
After around 24 hours of printing with a layer height of 0.3 mm, the first section of my bcn3d moveo is almost finished. So far the biggest part i ever printed i think. Almost 500g of Material Very happy with the result
[quote=“William_Ishiwata, post:166, topic:498”]
Also it is impossible in my experience to get a ring to stick to the build plate with such a small footprint. Even with a raft.[/quote]
For a while now, I’ve been using blue painter’s tape on my build plate, and the only problem I’ve been having is that I keep damaging the tape trying to get the chisel under the print to pry it loose. What I’ve been working on is generating models for hex tiles for Hasbro’s game Heroscape (the white pieces in the image are my prints; the grey and blue tiles are terrain pieces from the game):
The contact surface for the piece is a ring about 2" across from corner to corner:
and the print adheres to the painter’s tape on the build plate that I generally have to lift out the build plate so that I can get a good enough angle to get the chisel blade under the print to pry it loose; sometimes I have to try it from different angles in order to get purchase.
The 3D Printed Marble Machine #3 - Designed by Tulio Laanen
Printed with Flux 3D using Hobbyking filament.
@drmaettu What are your plans for software control?
The Moveo project looks really interesting but no robotic software for it yet. I want to make one, but want it to actually be functional, not just able to move around.
@drmaettu Wow I was thinking on print this also, but because I’m not an expert in electronics (I’m more a software developer guy) I postpone this, but keep bringing updates about your adventure on building this robot and I’m very interested on how you go with this robot.
Im printing the last of the big parts right now, the rest is already done. But i ordered much of the electronics and motors too late, so the most additional material is coming by me just end of september. Till then, i will not be able to make anything out of the plastic parts.
For the controls i dont know yet, this i will have to look at, as soon as the hardware is ready. But i work in the robotics industry, so i will have support from my colleagues, if i will need
Thanks @drmaettu I think there is open source work going on to get it running with actual robotic controller software rather than printer software just to move the steppers. Maybe by the time you get all parts and assembly there will be good news on that too.
As @Darkmax said, please do post updates on the project. I think a lot of us are very interested in this one.
wow very good print, all the printed parts are in the printable volume that support the flux printer or you have too cut some parts?
All of the printed parts fits onto the buildplate. Only the box for the electronics (its not necessary, if you ask me) i had to make half parts for fitting on the plate.
Little bit OT:
What are you doing that your prints become this awesome?
My machine never stops! At first I had many problems. But the more I used it… things loosened up and repeated tweaks caused synergistic effects. Also, stopped buying cheap PLA and use only the best lubricant and cleanest oil for my oiler/duster. Over time I just found the balance. I have many more mistakes than successes, but each day there are more failures behind than there are today.
Seriously great work there Michael_Haggard
How much did you have to tweak the software?
How do you know which way to print things. There is a total difference in quality depending how things are positioned in the machine.
I will now only print with the least surface area of the model touching the bed. The warping, shrinking etc is terrible (for me at least)
I have been working on this cannon for about 2 weeks now.
The model comes in parts to print and assemble or as an all in one.
Now I have a wonderful 24 cm barrel printed (that was in 2 parts with the cascabel and breech separate) The main barrel of the cannon was 210mm
The carriage assembly is giving me trouble because it must fit together exactly. It would also help if the axletrees could actually print round…
The photos here are of the mini version printed all in one shot. What I am pleased with is the level of detail with the small tackle loops etc still on the model.
This was printed vertically, thus the only thing on the print bed was the muzzle of the barrel, so the supports worked really well except for the fore truck (front wheels)
The larger I print things the much better results I get. The only issue is that I run out of filament mind print…
Muzzle, there was a raft so it was not directly on the print bed. I always have this issue that the raft looks amazing but the model that separates from it has a measly few layers. I guess that is a setting somewhere?
This is the best “back” I have printed, it is basically perfect, no supports to cut of means less damage to the model.
One shot of the “full” version. I am eventually thinking cast the barrel in brass. The trunnions are also a separate piece in the model (not sure why) I am still working out the scaling for the proper sizes.
I don’t have to tweak the software much at all. I am just very carful with placement and simple settings. The only advanced settings I ever mess with are skirts since I sometimes print to the limit of the base.
I used to print with a minimum of surface on the base due to warping… but now I print with the model oriented to cause the least overhang, so there are MINIMUM supports. I use the BuldTack stickers now and it is 90% perfect. Only one model in 10 has warpage on the base… and a little sand paper to the sticker solves that problem. i am printing square based models with the LIMIT of the Flux bed and no skirt and having nearly 100% success.
What I see of your model here is the problem of overhang. The supports are not doing the job. I suggest that you don’t use the automatic supports. I sprung for Simplify3D and can manually add supports. With time, your eye can just TELL which parts wont print without support and the computer is not always good at knowing.
Also, if you are running out of filament… are you using only the FLUX reels? That is a good filament but you have to watch and be ready to replace a reel mid print more often. I use an external reel and use 1kg or even 3kg reels of the best quality PLA I can find on Amazon Prime. That made a HUGE difference to my prints.
My rules of thumb:
1- as few supports as possible, so place model with that in mind. Even GOOD supports leave spurs and kinks in the model. My horse head above has NO supports. None. Every part is designed to extend in such a way that there is no actual overhang. This is important for rule 2
2- multi part models are better than single print models when many overhangs and large details are needed. Downward angled overhangs are bad. Upward angled overhangs are good. A doll is better printed head down so arms and legs need no support.
3- lubricate and clean but don’t clean TOO MUCH. A perfectly clean bed will not hold the model even with glue added. But a mildly used bed will work well even on the bare metal (with glue). The rods need lubed but I switched to WD40’s spray silicon and it helps a lot… I spray a rag, then apply by rag.
4- Speed and anxiousness are my enemy. I usually fail at a print when I rush it, wanting it done quicker.
I have buckets of failures and lost PLA… trust me. it took 100s of hours to start getting good models. Take notes, be systematic and don’t change too many settings all at once. Keep trying.
BTW - the model is great and the parts you print separately look well done!