Repeatable Loading and Unloading Modification to filament tube


#1

Hello People,

After countless print fails due to Material blockages, I have carried out a rather noteworthy modification.

It has so far worked seamlessly with over 25 material changes.

the steps are the following:-

1, Remove the filament tube from printer.

2, Remove both quick fit fittings.

3, Using a craft knife, Trim the ends so it is perfectly straight (perpendicular end)

4, VERY carefully cut the inside of each end of the tube the same as the attached picture.

  1. By flaring the ends the filament will not block immediately.

I hope that this has helped you guys and girls


#2

Recently, I have nothing but print failures, one after the other and the annoying clicking sound from the filament. Would you be able to show the actual part after your trim?

I am not sure what I am looking at the image?

Thank you again for sharing this.


#3

If you look at the dark grey in the picture, this represents the cross section after i have modified the ends. Im not going to pull the fittings off, but if i get time i will make a better tutorial.


#4

I am sorry I didnt mean to ask you to dismantle your printer. :). I will open the fitting and then this will make more sense.

Thanks again.


#5

Here we go… I modeled a filament tube with some rough quick connects. not exactly the same but hopefully gives you an idea.

I have sectioned it and highlighted in red the area in question. its like a very tiny funnel. This allows the filament to enter the tube at speed without getting caught by striking the side of the tube.

Sometimes the hot end will have some stale plastic that has gone past it’s soft warming stage and begins to break down. You can bypass this by grabbing a loose piece of filament and instead of connecting the filament tube you can ram the loose filament into the hot end instead once the hot end has heated up. This will in turn clear the bad plastic out the nozzle.

once the plastic falls in a smooth coil shape for a few seconds you are ready to give it a go.

Good luck.


#6

Thank you so much for taking the time and explaining it. I am afraid I am such an idiot, I still cant figure out what needs to be done. I am sorry. But thanks again.

On another note, still continue to have fail print after print… last night out of now where the machine went crazy and fell apart.


#7

That looks very familiar… Are you passing the movement test?

If not, take the black cable, find a good film sit on the cable for the length of the film.

Once the film has finished, bend the living daylights out of the black cable. Wind it round a pencil or a wooden spoon.

Once you have done this, re-attach to the machine. If the cable passes the movement test, i highly recommend marking the socket at each end and only mark it on one side of the connector. Although you can put these connectors in both ways (unlike normal USB) this will aid quick connection.

One final thing. The oil bottle whilst small is important to use on all moving parts. The ball joints all typically have a foam insert. Squeeze out about 4mm in length and distribute with the nozzle. Then once the ball joints are back, twist the rods they should turn freely after a few turns.

The white tube needs a bit of stretching too. But dont bend as it will kink and not maintain a smooth curve.

Good luck.


#8

Thank you!! I did exactly that, printer always pass the movement test.

Will try to print today and see if anything changes.