Level build plate?


#1

I remember some months ago there was an issue with some people and their build plates not being level etc.

I remember the FLUX team was thinking that some people had somehow warped their build plates though dropping them or something…

Is that still an issue for some people?

Is a skirt/ raft required now?

Reason I ask:

This shows that my build plate is not level, now is that because of the tape or something else? Or is it that the FLUX thinks it is not level?

This print I started is a 18 hour print so I am going to let it keep going and check back later as I have no idea how to fix it now anyway.

The next layer looks much better

That is also where the knocking comes in though. When the head is on the side it seems to think is lower that is when the knocking happens.


#2

The way that your tape overlaps, I wonder if some of your probe points are hitting where it’s two layers thick.


#3

Agree with Jim. that is not a very good job on taping the building plate. Thats a big bump when you are counting layers in microns.

Please remove and try.


#4

I concur as well; all of the pictures and videos I’ve seen of the use of painter’s tape on the print bed show the tape being applied edge to edge butting together with no overlaps. If you’re going to overlap the tape like that, you need to put a disc of tape at each of the check points that the print head uses for leveling, and even then you’re going to have issues with your first layer because the bed isn’t flat.

When I started using painter’s tape on my print bed, I butted the strips of tape against each other, and the only problem I’ve had with it was with filament from ProtoParadigm, which had adhesion beyond what I’ve seen with any other filament – the print stuck to the tape so well it ripped up pieces of tape rather than releasing.


#5

looks like you need to do the zoffset in advance settings to lift the head, I have mine at .2 because Im using buildtek


#6

+1 on the z-offset! Necessary IMHO when you’ve got tape or BuildTak on the plate.


#7

I only need +0.2 I not using the metal plated, I’m using a glass plate. You have to adjust to your specific situation.


#8

Just so you understand, I wasn’t recommending setting the z-offset to +1… That was just a term that is used to signify agreement with a previous post. @pmbroth is correct in saying that you have to adjust according to your own unique conditions.


#9

Thank you all for the replies.

The statue actually printed more or less fine, about 98% good enough.

R2D2 did not print well. I have a serious issue printing anything with a regular dome shape. The stormtrooper helmet also did not work.

I see that I must pay much more strict attention to the tape on the build plate.


#10

Domed surfaces are difficult overhangs to get right. Try adding support (if they’re hollow), or increase your infill percentage for solid parts. More top surfaces/layers will help both situations, too.