I fixed my clogged nozzle!


#21

What? Do you even read the posts? lol, yep, THEY ARE THE ONES YOU POSTED!

Also, my calibration cube finished with the 0.2 nozzle. It looks even better than than the 0.4. It seems to be slightly more accurate dimension-wise too! I even broke the top off the hollow cube to see how the bridging turned out and it looks MUCH better than the 0.4 nozzle. I’m going to try to print something much bigger and see how it turns out for a “large-ish” print. I’m very happy with the results though. After changing all the settings that said 0.4 to read 0.2 it just worked. Super simple! Even the first layer went down like glass. I was super impressed. The top looks smooth as glass too! I think I’m in love with this 0.2 nozzle, hehe! Anyways, as always, I’ll report back after further testing. Good night y’all.

Oh, and pay attention @Kevin_Anthony! :yum:


#22

Oh, you rascally rabbit…I was just checking if you was paying attention :slightly_smiling:

I just bought one from amazon and I am looking forward to using the .2 or .3 nozzle. I believe with using a smaller nozzle, it would increase resolution and the time it takes to print should be the same .

Can you confirm that, AmnNate? Have you tried printing the same object with different nozzles to compare resolution and timing?


#23

Well, with the 0.2 nozzle, you can’t do layers that are thicker than the diameter of the nozzle, so you pretty much have to do higher resolution, hence slower prints. As I mentioned, you will have to lower the
first layer height" to 0.2 or less or Flux won’ even let you begin the print. I’ve been printing at 0.1 layer height with a 0.2 first layer. I’m using the same printing speeds as I was on the 0.4 nozzle, but due to the smaller layers (can’t do 2.5 or 3mm layers), most prints are bound to take longer. If you already print at 0.1 or lower layer height, then you likely won’t notice much difference. I guess it really depends on your preferences, but you are more limited with the smaller nozzle.
The detail is indeed better though. I printed this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1379330
at 30mm total height. It’s SUPER TINY! But it came out really well for being shrunk so much. Well, all except the tippy top where it gets very pointy. That part would have benefited from more time between layers to cool. It got goobered up a bit, but the main tube of the lighthouse even has super tiny window indentations at that micro-scale. Very cool. I started printing some miniatures for board gaming while I still have the 0.2 nozzle installed. The ones found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/lowpoly-fantasy-tabletop/things
The first three turned out exceptionally well. I think I love the tiny nozzle. It’s great if you’re patient enough.
Eventually I want to move up to the 0.5 nozzle and try some speed printing of larger objects. It’d be nice to hbave more variability depending on what exactly you want to print.
Sorry for the rant, just want to share my excitement and success, as well as enough detail. Good luck!


#24

Can you repost the link to the exact nozzles you bought? I have some stainless steel PLA that has been waiting to be use with the Flux and the Palette.


#25

same ones I bought and should arrive tomorrow…


#26

Yep Kevin posted them first. I bought them to try at his suggestion. I’ve had great success. I’m really enjoying the 0.2 nozzle. It’s a bit slower, but it makes for some really fine detail. Good luck!


#27

I will order them first thing in the morning


#28

Somehow it’s so hard to remove the original nozzle on my tool head and I’m afraid on breaking it. I’m wonder how did you do that was so easy.


#29

I used a 5/16" socket wrench. It felt a little tense, but it broke loose pretty easily. I tightened the new smaller nozzles with a tiny pair of needle nosed pliers. Just snug it right up. It’s worked fine for me.


#30

Use the Unload Filament option in the menu. When the filament is unloaded the nozzle will be quite hot. I used a T-10 bit to remove the bottom cover, 3 screws. The cover holds the magnetic ring joints on the print head, be careful as the magnets are “press fit” in the cover and housing. Remove the vented cover, and if the nozzle is still hot you should be able to break it free with very little force. If the nozzle is not turning use the unload filament option in the menu again to get everything heated up so the nozzle loosens up.

I replaced the nozzle with a Micro Swiss MK8 0.4mm wear resistant nozzle. This whole process took me about 5 minutes as I was very careful when removing the bottom vented cover.


#31

@AWGood is there a specification on how much torque to apply during the installation of the nozzle? Did you have any issues with filament oozing from the sides after the install?


#32

I certainly didn’t measure the torque applied. I just kind of went until snug. I haven’t had any oozing, but I do notice some crud on the threads when I swap nozzles. Apparently it’s not enough to actually cause any problems, but it is noticeable. Sorry for the vague answer, but that’s the best I’ve got.


#33

As AmnNate said just until the nozzle was “finger” tight to me. Once the nozzle stopped stopped I turned a 1/16th of a turn more. I can’t really give you any definite measurements of torque. Once the print head has heat cycled the nozzle will be in there like the original was. I have printed maybe 30 hours since changing the nozzle and everything is working wonderfully. I changed no settings in the expert tab related to the nozzle change as it was the same diameter.


#34

Thanks, that looks like a good procedure, it would have oozed after a few hours if it was’t tight enough.


#35

I am glad you got it switched out.


#36

I bought these and found them to not match the original Flux nozzles. The flare is not as wide and they have more threading than the Flux heating assembly can fit. I was able to print quite a bit with one but now it’s allowing plastic to seep out through its threads because it doesn’t fit perfectly in the printer head. It seeps at about a rate of “too much after 1 hour” as that’s about when it makes contact with the print below and causes a tilt error or some other problem and the print aborts (or I catch it).

The first linked Kamo nozzles also look like the threads are going to be too long but the tip end looks to be the same width as the nozzle I got originally (and is faulty…), so I’m going to try an order of those too.


#37

Did you have any success with the nozzles, because I also order the one that kevin linked but it didn’t work with my print head, the teflon tube that has inside the header doesn’t fit with this nozzles, I need to print with a 0.3mm or 0.2mm for a project, but these one that I received doesn’t fit very well.

Update: Never mind I have just to push a little more the teflon tube in to the flux printer head, now it works correctly.


#38

I’ve managed to remove the nozzle and replace it with a new one but unfortunately I still cannot get the filament through the print head, it seems there is a blockage further up the feed tube.
Has anyone got any ideas on how to clear it?


#39

If you remove the nozzle and then look trough the hole, you should see trough directly. You may also try to push trough the hot hotend some filament while the nozzle is off.


#40

I had the exact same problem 2 days ago. I had to be very patient. I took the tiniest screwdriver I have and made it heat up with a soldering iron. Then I pushed it the toolhead. I drilled in the blocking plastic and waited for the srewdriver to cool down. Then I pulled back (it was quite hard) and a little bit of plastic came out. I had to do it at least 5 times if I remember correctly and all in all it took me an hour. You may also do the same trick with guitar strings. I hope this helps you, good luck.