Hair spray for hold down


#1

As I mentioned on the KS comments, I planned to try hair spray on the Flux to hold down, as opposed to the glue. I use it on some other printers.

It works great. Just spray it on the bare metal plate side, and hit print. No fussing with blue tape, glue sticks or anything else. (Don’t worry about too much, though don’t have a pool on there.)

I’ve used Aqua Net Extra Super Hold mostly (because I posted a link to it, so people could see the bottle) and Suave Extreme Hold (I mostly use that on another printer, because the Aquanet doesn’t work as well with the heated bed there.) Other people suggest different things online, but those tend to be some of the most common ones that get recommended in the US. Another great thing is that should it get stuck, or build up, just take the plate and some water, and it cleans up really nicely. That also works for getting prints off the bed, if needed. So far for me, I think I’ve used my fingers to pop it off.

So far aside from one thing, the Flux has been the best out of box experience (with the possible exception of my first one, which was a kit, 4 years ago.)


#2

I tried hairspray and didn’t have the same luck. Did you start the print with the spray wet, or did you let it dry first? I haven’t figured out the nuance required for doing this with an unheated bed yet.

On my heated bed printers, I’ll apply a heavy coat that I let dry fully, and then I’ll just dust a quick coat on before a print starts, and that makes it tacky when you start the print.


#3

The first time I tried Aqua Net on my boro glass, it wasn’t tacky yet. I didn’t try again for a while until I made a lithophane and really needed a super-smooth reverse side to the print. Uh-mazing! Let it dry to tacky, about 5 minutes, and that’s where the magic begins. Glossy and perfect.


#4

Now where to find Aqua Net hairspray in Thailand… :confused:

Maybe Flux Store can stock all the unique products that seem to be needed.


#5

My best guess is that hairspray aerosol cans are effective in this use case because they can apply a consistent dilution of Polyvinyl acetate (PVA). Confirm that your locally-available hair products contain PVA, and you should be good to go!


#6

Great advice, will look for something like that.

I love the smooth results from the glass plate, this might make it even better.

I did find a ‘Liquid Glue’ from Taiwan today that I will try out. If it works out I will post a pic, maybe someone here can translate the label.


#7

I didn’t realize that hairspray’s secret was PVA. PVA is also the main ingredient in most wood glue. There are people who’ll make a watered down wood glue soup and brush it on their build plate. If you can’t find it in a can, you can probably make your own that way.


#8

#9

I’m running to check Hair Gel in the bathroom now!

Edit:

Found 1 hair gel that was PVP based and another that was PVA. Will give that a try after current test finishes.

Testing the cheap Taiwanese ‘Liquid Glue’ I found yesterday. Results look very promising, goes on with swab-top applicator in very thin coat, dries nearly clear. Halfway through a test print now and adhesion perfect so far.

The thing I’d worry about with hairspray is myself mostly. Overspray on the rails, rods, belts can’t be good, and I know I would eventually get lazy and not want to take my glass plate off the machine every single time to reapply the spray. I’ve seen 3M spray glues while out looking around and thought about those too, but price-wise it seems like overkill.


#10

Agreed. You really don’t want adhesives anywhere near the moving parts. I always take the borosilicate glass off and spray very carefully on just the area where I know I need it to stick. A light spritz works better than any amount of standing liquid.


#11

That gives me another use for the bottle of Gorilla Glue I have. Interesting.


#12

DON’T USE GORILLA GLUE! It expands as it dries, it will not release from the plate, it is water activated so the “soup” will start the hardening process, and it’s a lot more expensive than good old PVA gluesticks.


#13

After reading your comments about hairspray and PVA I thought I’d try putting PVA in spray bottles to see if that would work. I tried using a large spray cleaner bottle but it delivers too much spray per pump meaning you have to manually wipe it around the plate to get it evenly covered. Now I’ve tried a small spray bottle from a craft shop and that’s a lot better. A few pumps then a blast with a hair dryer and it’s good to go. Works well on my glass plate anyway. The glue is watered down about 4 to 1.
I don’t think I am ever going to use up that bottle of PVA glue. Maybe I could sell my own brand of hairspray “Fluxious Sleek n Shine”.


#14

Getting a 404 on your picture.


#15

It uploaded correctly. Try this one>


#16

“Is that hair gel?” :slight_smile:


#17

That’s what my brand needed, a touch of class! Thanks Jim.


#18

I have been using a fabric spray adhesive. You can buy it at your local Wal-mart or any fabric store and it works great. I have not had one print peel off yet. I just remove the metal plate from the machine and give it a generous spray and replace. After about a minute the spray becomes really tacky due to being a contact adhesive and the prints stick to it great. The adhesive comes off easily with some warm water soap and a sponge but most of the time I dont even clean it after a print. I’ll simply respray it and start printing.


#19

Try with Styling Park Avenue Hair Gel to give a new look to your hairs.