I know - the idea of chasing the head around with the puck just doesn’t work for me. I’ve actually used the little dimples that @fred_dot_u mentions below to drill some large 10mm holes in my plate at the calibration points. Through trial and error I discovered that the self-leveling is independent of the zeroing. So you don’t need to chase the head around with the puck - in your case all you have to do is keep the puck in the center and then it should work. My idea with the holes didn’t work out though, because the head doesn’t retract fast enough to clear the holes during calibration - so the rods become disengaged as the head hits the edge of the hole. My planed solution to this is to buy some small 3mm high and 10mm diameter magnets that I will place in the holes I’ve drilled. They are on order, but I wont get them for at least another week. If it works out, then I’ll post an update.
My Thingiverse bracket is quite snug and I had some concern about it restricting vertical travel, during the plate sensing process. Each time it zeroes on the plate, it continues and prints fine.
Why would some have problems, other than restriction of movement? If it is restriction of movement, careful sanding of the bracket should address that, yes?
I don’t think the puck clarity has anything to do with it. The build plate is solid steel.
The magnets may cause problems. I’ve had my head pick up the plate when a magnet became stuck during the calibration process. If the nozzle is non-magnetic, you may not have a problem there, but I don’t recall how close my magnet was when it lifted the plate.
I agree. But be careful with sanding the brackets. As I was designing them, I built quite a few models to get the tolerances right and even a .25mm error on the tolerance can cause the plate to move around a little, resulting in the print becoming poor quality.
Clear glass. 75.80mm cylindrical with a thickness of 2.85mm. Pretty big and the 8" delta is too big too make any real adjustments.
What I have noticed is that when doing the calibration, the FLEKS is slightly warped and doesn’t sit on the metal plate completely and because of that, I believe the calibration is not working accurately and cancels stating something wrong.
Maybe a small change to your original design. how about a small lip that goes over the 8" delta in order for it to stay flat on the plate and firm.
you might be able to design faster than i can.
@Jim Question? i just recently purchased the Fleks print plate and having a difficult time with calibration. Is there a way to calibrate once and disable?
have the dimensions of the Fleks calibrated with the FLUX, like I do with the laser…2.85mm thickness. Z-offset, I believe?? Hope you understand the questions. Help in this matter would be greatly appreciated, thanks, Jim.
We are finding an easier software solution for this situation. Before we have an update, I think you can try a trick to see if it works.
Please start a normal printing task with the original steel plate and place a coin on the center of the plate. When it calibrate the center point, the setting of the height will be increase a little and memorized. When it starts to extrude, cancel the job and try again with your Fleks plate. Let me know if it works.
Jim, I’m happy to see your responses on the forum for the problems that arise. It’s always good to have the top people involved with the little people.
I hope you won’t mind if I don’t try the method you’ve suggested, as my Fleks plate calibrates and prints wonderfully!
BjarneMatzen, I think my build works great. It requires a bit of extra effort to get the plate into position, with a slight snap or click when it drops into place. Beautiful design you created and I appreciate it every time I don’t have to apply or clean off the glue!
I tried the coin trick but still doesn’t want to calibrate correctly. it touches the plate and I can hear it double tapping as it trys to calibrate but it still taps the fleks and states that i have to clean the nozzle…done that SOOOO many times. I restarted the FLUX and I am lost.
I really want to use the Fleks build plate but feel that it is becoming more problematic than the tape and glue solution (for me at least).
Okay, so now the pressure is on Fred. (grin)
My answer is I got lucky. My plate does not move and requires a bit more force to snap into place than I expected, but it does snap/click/pop rice krispies. That’s about the only thing I’ve not seen referenced in these messages.
Another thought pops into my alleged mind. The Fleks people have in the past suggested that one can cut these plates with a fine tooth saw blade or suitable sharp tool.
The Flux Delta is 5.125 inches on an edge. My calculations and manipulations of drawing program indicate that results in a hexagon slightly more than 10" across at the widest point. I was able to rotate the hexagon I created within a 10" square, but the recesses of the Fleks 10" simple appear to intersect the edges of the hexagon:
The image above is to scale. I would expect that one could ignore the recesses in the Fleks 10" plate, or move up to the 12" plate and have no complications in cutting a clean hexagon.
This should eliminate any considerations with binding or movement, if the cuts are done accurately enough. There is a hexagonal plate that would also fit, at the same price, but it’s also out of stock. There is little difference between cutting down a 12" square and cutting down a 10" hexagon in order to reach a nine point something hexagon, in my opinion.
I’m likely to order a 12" plate simply as an exercise and to eliminate the snap-in aspect of my current circular model.
Don’t order the 12" plate just yet! It reads as 12" in many places, but drops into the shopping cart as a 254 mm plate. I have requested a confirmation and correction from the Fleks people.
Although that would be great to have it cut to specifications, but that doesn’t help my initial problem.
I believe that I figured out the reason why the calibration is not working. As I thought, the Fleks has a slight warp to it that when the calibration starts, it seems to tap and slightly bounce the plate holder, which screws with the calibration. I had to lightly hold down the plate holder in order for the flex to calibrate correctly.
It has to be extremely flat on the plate, just like a print, any warping screws the whole process up. Gonna send Fleks a RMA for this…
What about a “low tack adhesive”, ala disk sander pads, to fix the Fleks plate to the build plate?
I’ve thought about that, but when one considers that a feature of the Fleks plate is the ability to flex to pop the model free, it means releasing the bond each time one finishes a build, somewhat reducing the utility of the plate.
I have also a Cube 3rd generation and purchased a 6" simple plate. Unfortunately, the supplied binder clips have contact interference with the head assembly, causing the clips to sproingy across the room. I’d consider the low tack adhesive in that circumstance other than for the reason mentioned.
I don’t think that the Flux community is large enough for the Fleks people to offer a lovely hexagon for our build area, but it would be wonderful.
Well, you guys got me all excited and worried at the same time! I went ahead and ordered the 8" fleks plate. I didn’t have a whole lot of luck with the PEI I tried, but am hopeful for this material. Sounds like it takes some tinkering, but that’s all the fun, right? Thanks for sharing your experiments and feedback. It’s been very helpful so far. I hope we can all continue to dial this in. Cheers!
My only real solution is to use double sided tape to adhere the fleks to the flux. Sounds funny saying it that way.
But that seems to have worked better for me and i just sent a simple print without any problems. No need for the Puck, those *ucks.
Yep, double sided tape works.
I’m happy to say that I have found a simple, yet perfect solution that re-enables self-leveling and calibration and requires nothing that leaves residue or needs cleaning up. All you need are 3 little babies like the one shown here:
It even helps with the stability of the plate. Here is what I did, step by step:
- I ordered these 3mm high and 10mm diameter magnets on the internet (I used an Australian supplier, but there are quite a few around. They are pretty easy to find).
- I printed the 2 holders and locked in the Fleks3D plate.
- I let the Flux try to calibrate. It would fail, but part of doing this process is that it will leave little “marks” in the plate where the head touches.
- I drilled a little 2mm pilot hole through each of the marks, then used a full 10mm drill to create holes for the magnets.
- Using a small file, I cleaned up the holes to ensure that the magnets sit snug, but not too tight and that there is no leftover material on the edge of the holes.
- I put the plate into the holders, added the magnets.
- IMPORTANT: Rebooted the Flux to reset prior measurements.
- Started a simple print through Flux Studio.
- Calibration proceeds and works in first try, with the head touching precisely in the center of the magnets.
The holders still needs to be used to ensure the calibration performs on the center of the magnets.
Granted this is a little messing about, but it works!
Printing the second holder, now (the old fashioned way ). Now I’ve got something new to find. Magnets. Or, I wonder if glass discs would work just as well? I happen to have lots of 3mm glass…
I’m pretty sure that glass discs would work perfectly too. It’s just a matter of creating a firm surface between the print head and the plate. Magnets was just my number one option because they are easy to find and fairly solid.