Fleks 3D plate holders


#1

I have just posted these plate holders to thingiverse for the Fleks 3D build plate (The 8 Inch Delta version):

I initially used magnets to hold the plate in place, but that became troublesome with larger prints as the print head would hit the magnets. This works much better and only requires 2 plate holders due to really tight tolerances.

The only problem is that self-leveling appears to struggle. I get around that myself by using gcode from Simplify3D and I’m getting some exceptional prints with no warps and very consistent wall structure. But it would be nice if you could turn off self-leveling in Flux Studio.

I can finally say that glue sticks have become banished from my setup!! :slightly_smiling:


#2

I purchased the flex myself and should be arriving in the next couple of days. Perfect timing for this. I also purchased the pucks that I am hoping to replicate as a 3D image that could work…I believe they only send 1 puck, but we need 3.


#3

If you could let me know what a “puck” actually looks like (and it’s dimensions), that’d be great. They didn’t have them available when I bought my plate and shipping to Australia is rather expensive, so I decided to go without initially. If I know what they look like, maybe I can find a way to somehow incorporate them into the plate itself. Maybe drilling a hole in the plate and dropping them in would work (if the puck is small enough). If not, I might go and think about some alternative.


#4

Didn’t think about it until you created the flex (fleks) holder. Once I get them, I will give you the exact measurements for you to incorporate into your design.

Can’t wait to get mines…getting tired of glue or using rafts that stick too much to the model and got to cut them off.

You stated that you got rid of the glue but I still see glue in the background. Is that a just in case situation?? :slight_smile:


#5

BTW Kevin: If you want to print these plate holders, I can highly recommend that you put the Fleks plate down and secure it with magnets initially while you print them. Your print is far less likely to warp. Just be careful where you put the magnets as you risk the print head hitting them.


#6

The glue in the background is the graveyard - along with the magnets and the sticky-tape :wink:


#7

How well would the self-leveling work if holes were placed in the bracing units?

What program did you use to create the part?

I’ve printed my first part, a tiny one, using the Fleks 3D plate. The magnets first wanted to lift the plate from the bed, after getting attracted to the head, but moving them to the three portions not approached by the head solved that. Tiny parts don’t flex-pop free, but it was still relatively easy to remove.

The underside of the part came out perfectly smooth.


#8

I realize now that the contact point for the self-leveling is on the Fleks plate, so holes in the holder would serve only to reduce material use, not improve function.


#9

I used TinkerCad for the brackets. Yes, the self leveling is on the plate itself, so creates a bit of a problem. It actually works some of the time (by luck), but is inconsistent. Ignoring self leveling with Simplify3D works just fine, but I’d like to get it working nonetheless.


#10

I purchased the Fleks3D 8" round plate as well. I wasn’t sure if we would need the the puck, so ordered it anyways. The puck is approx 2" diameter and the same thickness of the the Fleks3D plate. Ill get you a couple of pictures and the measurements when I get home today.
I unfortunately haven’t been able to try it out yet as I am still waiting to receive my Flux. (should be any day now)

Kyle


#11

Here you can see the puck, is a small disc made of glass with the same thickness of the flesk3d
Link


#12

At 3 mins remaining for printing the first Fleks3D holder, my printer displayed the “out of filament” error and nothing could convince it otherwise. Luckily, there was so little remaining to print that I have a working holder from that effort. Turning off the filament detection in Advanced took care of the problem (as a work-around) and I have a second holder as well. It is a snug fit and I have yet to determine if it will interfere with the bed leveling sequence.

The Fleks3D plate has proved itself so far. The holders were printed on the plate, no slippage, good bonding. When the print was done, a bit of bending and the part released easily. Small parts may have to be carved carefully away, however.


#13

Mine is due on Thursday.:slight_smile: And so the experiment begins… I’ll start with blue tape, to hold it in place.


#14

How were you able to calibrate the machine in S3D? Just got mine and giving me errors.


#15

I just turned calibration off in the gcode (basically no G29 in the starting script). Hope that helps


#16

G29 or G92? Do you mean the G-Code option for “allow zeroing” ?


#17

No - I meant G29 - I don’t have it included myself, but Simplify3D support said that G29 was the common code for self-leveling. The actual bit where the head comes down in the centre has not been a problem for me (although I did find that you may need to reboot the Flux before you do it the first time with the Fleks3D plate in place. Maybe the Flux keeps previous zero values in memory).


#18

I can’t find it or I don’t have it as part of the startup script. Is it an option or script?

Luckily, it worked with the puck, but annoying since i have to follow the printer head for each calibration. Don’t understand why a puck would work instead of just using the fleks plate to auto calibrate? I wonder if it is because the puck is clear?


#19

I’ve used the Fleks3D plate a few times, once or twice with an array of magnets, more recently at least two prints with the Thingiverse bracket. In all cases, the calibration worked without the puck, directly on the Fleks3D plate. I have noted that there is the beginning of a dimple at the calibration points. It could be remnants of filament becoming embedded in the surface and I’ve not had the chance to examine it more closely.

I would expect that one would use the puck to chase the head around the build plate, then rush in to install the plate after the head retracts. I don’t see that as being practical.

Am I misunderstanding the sequence being used with the puck?


#20

Nope, not at all. Exactly how I had to calibrate…that would be annoying each and every time…I will figure it out or we will figure it out… :slightly_smiling: