The oil cleans out the dust and humidity on the PLA. There is not enough oil to hurt anything and it is actually making the machine work much better. When I return to new clean PLA it works well for a while but after 50 hours I have to put the oiler back on - if I use older filament I MUST put the oiler back on… And then the flux works like a charm!
Can someone post a pic of the exact position and set-up of the filter/oiler being described here?
I am away from the printer now, but it goes right next to the feed where you insert the filament in the top. Run filament through the oiler then insert into the flux and let the oiler rest next to the hole. I will post photos later if no one beats me to it.
So, I added the oiler/filter and now my prints aren’t looking as good or coming out as well. I had several very nice early prints, but after adding the oiler/filter, everything is gapping or sputtering leaving holes and poorly attached layers.
I’m thinking the injection tractor is sensitive to too much drag in or out. The type and density and engaged length and how tight you pack the sponge likely has some serious impact.
I have just removed it to test my theory and reprinting the same items to see the impact.
I agree that there is likely a fine line of resistance that you don’t want to cross. I would also assume there is a certain amount of lubrication that will have bad effects. However, I have apparently gotten a pretty good system down, for myself at least. I use a really light “sponge/foam” material that I scavenged from some packing material and only a apply a couple drops of oil on the side of the sponge farthest from the printer itself. I only apply this oil every 50-ish printing hours or so. It’s mostly by feel, to be honest, but it has worked wonders for me. I’m sorry you’re having trouble. My best suggestion would just be to continue experimenting, but to each his own.
Aside, I’ve basically decided that the lubrication isn’t so much about the extruder gear gripping the filament as it is the friction of the filament inside the feed tube. I honestly have no idea, I just know it works, but the more I think about it, the more it seems to be pretty obvious that the feeding problem came from the friction inside that curled of bowden tube. Perhaps that doesn’t explain the success of people that used the filter without oil, but then again, maybe the filament was just dusty and the dust was the cause of the friction. Either way, the filter has probably been the most useful thing I’ve printed so far and I am thrilled to be able to print things that make the printer itself work even better. Brilliant technology!
I’ve been having really good luck with the Dremel pad (http://amzn.to/1T4Mg4g) and just some WD-40. I’ll pretty much just apply WD-40 only when I start to hear clicking, or sometimes between filament changes. I haven’t heard the clicking for quite a while.
I did have to put something between the Dremel pad and the feeder, as the soft pad will get caught in the feeder a bit causing a different type of clicking noise. I’m planning to design something nicer for this use.
So printing without the oiler/filter didn’t work either so I’m counting these failures as the difficult and thin part I was trying to make.
I have added the Dremel pad and did it during a print by just putting a slit in it. Also have it in the clam shell case I had previously printed to prevent it getting pulled into the feeder.
General question about feeding.
My print seems to be doing better now that I upped my layer thickness from 0.05 to 0.1 mm. Does a thicker layer extrude more filament? Common sense would say yes. What I had been seeing on the prior high res prints was the bead of extruded plastic would get thin or skip at times. Having a thicker layer seems to be giving me a better print and that seemed counter intuitive until I thought possible ways to increase the amount of plastic coming out.
I want to find a good low friction bearing spoil to print next to take more strain off the line
Is there an expert setting to boost the amount of filament being fed in?
I believe that you can change the infill percentage as well as the extrusion multiplier… Look for verbiage like that in the advanced page.
Where are you getting your info?
Want to learn much more.
@Jason_Mullins: If you’re having trouble with it extruding properly, you may want to try increasing the temperature some. Not sure it would work, but if you’re noticing the problem this quickly, it’s worth a try.
Speaking of changing temperature: Anyone else notice that the first layer temp is only ever 5 degrees higher than the print temp? Even if I set the “advanced” setting to 230, if my print temp is set to say 200, the first layer will only print at 205. I would love to give it a little more heat on the first layer, but I can’t seem to figure out how to make it work. Thoughts?
Tumping Sound on Prints
Details like that are in the slicing manuals like http://manual.slic3r.org/ and https://ultimaker.com/en/manuals/software/cura-15-04 You’ll gain experience and familiarity over time, just keep plugging away at it.
For what details and settings to change based on your prints, check out some of the guides I’ve posted here: http://makerhive.proboards.com/thread/780/nice-guide-print-troubleshooting
I’ve been looking at trying to modify this model to work in the top area of the Flux. I think it’s a really great design with a built-in filter/oiler and would work really well. I just currently have no idea how to use the software well enough to make what I want to make.
That’s an impressive bit of construction. How would you modify it to fit the top area? Is your objective to enable larger spools to be fed from the top? It would appear that one could create a clip-on/clip-in cylinder to attach to the bottom of this feeder keeping it centered in the Flux Delta payload bay.
What software are you wishing to use? Flux Studio does not edit or create models, unless there’s something hidden from me.
Do you have a preferred modeling program?
My first thought is to just extend the 3 legs outwards so that they stretch across the large gap in the top. I am not sure if a spool would fit on top properly then, or if the vertical height of the casing would get in the way. If that’s a problem, I would then make the base both wider and taller.
I don’t really like the idea of having something clip on. I would rather have it all self-contained in the top.
I’m still new to the modeling world and have been trying a few different pieces of software. Here’s a post I did looking for some recommendations - 3D Modeling Software
I was kind of hoping that @Jimustanguitar might have some ideas on making this work
A one kg spool is larger diameter than the recess and would not fit inside. The lid/cover also prevents a larger spool from being centered in the recess. It’s not surprising but still unfortunate that the original creator did not provide the source files for his model. It would make modifications that much easier.
You could use OpenSCAD and import the STL file then create additional bracing/brackets as you like, or use another modeling program to create bracing/brackets that fit/mesh/match with the original design.
The wheeled carriage aspect of the thingiverse model is pretty slick. A bit of lubricant on the wheels and “filament axles” would give extended life, although it’s not like the axles as assembled are particularly expensive.
The lid comes off effortlessly. In the right position it lifts up and away.