Feeding issues with 3rd party filament?


#1

Anyone have feeding issues with 3rd party filament?

I have some polymaker that turned up this morning 3 days after ordering it.

It made terrible knocking noises while feeding and making the support layers and they did not print properly, very messy. Does the support setting change the raft setting as well?

Been over a month since I have been printing so I have forgotten most of the settings etc.

I still can only get the macbook to connect to it in AP mode.

I am using studio 0.3.0 for OSX
I have not updated either the firmware or toolhead yet as I am waiting to see if I can get a viable print out of this new filament.

I am quickly learning that each filament has a different print setting just like other printers and ICC profiles…


#2

Yes I have a same problem with other PLA filaments that create a knocking noise. I found with a Hatchbox filament has less problem. It’s clearly some of the filament does affect feeder gear slipping on the filament that is created a knocking noise.


#3

I figured out the knocking sound this morning.

I can’t understand the massive feeding issues with this printer.

Sewing machines have been around for over a hundred years…

Can’t some of the tech be applicable?


#4

Knocking is caused by too much pressure in the hot end causing the stepper motor to skip steps or the filament to slip on the hobbed bolt in the extruder. In my experience different manufacturer’s filaments can have different optimal extrusion temperatures, and you have to experiment to get the right settings. Print rates also have a big influence on this issue. A slower print speed, or a few degrees up or down can make the difference between smooth extrusion and knocking.

I own six other printers, and I have to fiddle with them each time I use a different filament. It is not just a FLUX issue.

Remember…3D printing isn’t easy, and it isn’t plug and play. You have to be willing to tinker with your settings each and every time you print. I’m not preaching at you…just trying to calibrate your expectations.


#5

thanks…

Yeah… It is definitely an experience thing.

I do loads of large formate inkjet printing. Media makes a huge difference, canvas, paper, plastic etc.

Yeah, I was just not prepared for the challenges. The amount of time and materials spent fiddling with things.

All of what you say is true.

Cheers


#6

Based on your experiences, should we stick on one brand filament to avoid difference settings on each filament?


#7

I have found that Hatchbox PLA filament works really well for me and is really affordable… I buy my rolls on Amazon. I tested it on each of my printers and made note of settings for each machine. Thus, I have standardized it for all of my printers. Now…when I hear about a specialty filament or a really affordable filament, I will get a roll and do a lot of testing to see if it will work. I keep a notebook with settings and other conditions so I can refer back to it.

So…find a filament brand that you like and can afford, and then stick with it. Measure the filament diameter for each roll as a matter of course, as that can have a big influence on print quality. You can compensate for this in the slicer settings. Since the FLUX doesn’t have a heated bed, we are limited as to using other materials. However, if you change filament manufacturers, you should test all over again and go from there.


#8

For me, besides the same brand of filament having different optimal print settings, I’ve also noticed the optimal settings can change depending if the filament is translucent, opaque, or with metallic. If I use a natural PLA without any dyes it’s one temperature setting that works really well. A “silver” or “gold” plastic PLA will have a higher temperature for me, while a white, black or grey PLA will have the same range of temperature settings.

Don’t know if the dyes added for different colors play a role or if there’s some change in the PLA “formula”. Elevation from sea level is another thing I noticed that influence the temperature settings I use.