Thanks, but i dont think its better than yours. And i think that its not just the settings, its also the filament which can make a big difference in print quality. But anyway, i hope you find the file useful
I totally agree with you on that. I use Hatchbox filament and yours?
It was a brand named “BestValue PLA”. I also printed my robot-arm with the same brand. Unfortunately, my local dealer kicked this brand out of his store, so i have to look for another source for this very well printing material. How is the Hatchbox?
Hardest part of the print are all the cross bars and hand rails. Your print are so detail that might be from your printer that has a tight tolerance.
Your Eiffel towers look awesome ! I have not had such good results yet. I use eSun filament.
eSun works well for me with S3D. I’ve found first layer temp is best around 220, second layer 210, and then drop to 195 after that. If using FLUX Studio, 220 and 195 is fine. I normally run 3 skirts at a 4mm offset, and nothing extrudes for the first lap, usually by 1.5 or 2 laps, then the skirt starts so I get a good prime. I use PVP glue stick on glass bed.
try to reduce speed, 3d printing is a long process ‘‘patience = awesome plastic’’ and the flux delta can do much much much better than this. just set it to high quality and you should get better results. low quality has bad retraction(expert menu :P) and higher speeds which destroy intricate prints, set it to high quality and the wait will be worth it!
hope this helps!
Hi, I use simplify 3d but I will try to reduce the speed. If I have time I will give it a try with flux studio high quality. Thanks
I think you should reduce temperature instead.
I have a few test on a Eiffel tower with the new extruder and run into a problem of grinding filament since the drive gear keeps spinning back and forth to pull and push a filament. I have to reduce retraction speed in 50% to avoid the problem. However, this is a good test on a new extruder to see how it perform. In addition, if a simple model, a normal retraction speed shouldn’t be a problem.
I agree with reducing temperature. If you are using S3D you can drop temperature and increase non-printing movement speed 9000 to resolve the stringing.
In any case, you have come a very long way from your first tower so Congratulations, and now you will just keep improving your craft! Nice work!
@Goldensnake I have noticed a lot more filament grinding and harsher extruder movements or jerkiness since FS 0.7.4 it seems since about then that something changed in the retraction movement steps/speeds. I’ve done a lot of readjustment of settings as well that I did not have to do before.
@BoozeKashi @goldensnake yeah actually, you should reduce temperature as it will cool the plastic faster and it won’t string as much, but nothing beats retraction settings at stringing! hope this helps!
Reducing print temperature and increasing non-printing movement speed will do far more to reduce stringing than any amount of tweaking that you can do with retraction settings. It’s a little counter-intuitive at first but the concept is that by reducing printing temperature, less molten plastic will be oozing, and faster non-printing movements means the nozzle is not lingering around for it to ooze to begin with. Those should always be your first two adjustments to fix stringing issues.
After that, fine tune your settings with retraction and wipe adjustments.
If you approach from retraction settings first to combat stringing, I promise you will go crazy. And still have strings when you are done… Temp and movement first, then retract and wipe settings and you can get down to angel hairs or gossamer on even the hardest torture tests.
thanks I will try what you said