Eiffel Tower bad print


Hi, I tried to print the eiffel tower : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:912478
but the result is quite bad.

Do you think the flux can do better? I figured the print speed has to be really slow for the different layers to cool and retraction settings have to be perfect because there are a lot of them… Has anyone tried this print?
Thanks for your help :slight_smile:


I made one and it came out absolutely perfect. But i sliced it with simplify3d. You have to get perfect retraction setttings, because this model is like a retraction test


I’ve got 3D printers of different types … the FLUX Delta is of the “Yoda Head Printer” type, while another one, the B9Creator ist ot the “Eiffel Tower Printer” type.
Now if one tries to equivocate suited 3D models between these two, ugly things tend to happen:



I would disagree about the FLUX being just a Yoda Head printer, there are plenty of examples of amazing prints in the Trophy Room.

That Eiffel Tower model from Thingiverse has several variants, unfortunately, the most popular one is notoriously flawed. If you read the comments for that Thing, it has been pointed out several times that there are details in that .STL file that are only .24mm, much too small for nearly any FDM printer to render and even that is only when that model is printed at full scale, which is well beyond the build capacity of the FLUX and most other desktop printers.

It is more suited for something like the Raise N2+, Gmax, Creality CR10, etc. but even then, those tiny details are going to cause problems unless you use a really small nozzle and print time becomes days not hours.

You are right that you need to have retraction settings dialed in, but before you even adjust those, you need to have temperature and travel speed set right first. Those will affect stringing much more than anything you adjust with retraction settings. It is counter-intuitive, but lowering print temperature and increasing travel speed is what will reduce stringing fast. Adjust one a few clicks, test, then the other. I’ve found that for PLA, around 195c temp and 100-120 travel speed will get you in the ballpark, then you can fine tune.

Once you’ve made as much improvement as you think you can get with those two settings, then you’ve got the ‘fine adjustment’ you can tune with retraction settings of retraction length and retraction speed. How much filament to pull back, and how fast to pull it back. Again, adjust one at a time and test, so you know what is making the difference. When you stop seeing a difference, adjust the other.

The FLUX is quite a capable printer and stringing can be tamed on even the most difficult models to just some very fine ‘hairs’ that clean up quickly. But retraction settings are your fine tuning, not your starting point.

Oh, and check Thingiverse for the model called Eiffel Tower Easier to Print, it got upscaled properly to eliminate the minuscule details. Either that or slice the other one in parts and print at its full 1-meter scale.


thank you. I will try this model :slight_smile:


Here is the “Eiffel Tower, Easier to Print” (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1276837) I made in 3 colors. Left one is original size, right is about 15% larger if I remember right. Some of the trusses of the smaller one did not print but it is hard to tell the difference from the picture.


Those are the funniest looking Yoda Heads I’ve ever seen :joy:


Unfortunately, the “Easier to print” Eiffel Tower won’t print at all from Flux Studio 0.7.0 (Ubuntu 64) …
I miss the “run” Button in the “Printing Task” subwindow:


I just tested on macOS 10.12.3 with FLUX Studio 0.7.1 and it loads in less than 30 seconds.

The file is only 11Mb, I don’t think size or the file itself is the problem.

Looks like maybe some issue with Ubuntu / FLUX Studio 0.7.0

Interesting to note, even at the highest settings, .05 layer height, I could not get it close to 20 hours, it was 10.5 hours with max quality settings.

There has been a bug in the last few versions that if you move the part or make any other changes while it is slicing/rendering (progress bar in bottom left corner) then you will get the missing ‘Start’ button until you close/quit FLUX Studio and restart it. You have to let it finish slicing, even if you know you are going to change it again, still have to let it finish… Try that.


ah, ok… but the “Start” button in the main window is greyed out until the slice progress bar finishes, so it is impossible to go ahead when slicing has not finished. Anyway, quit and restart FLUX Studio once in a while reveals the desired button.


Exactly, once you import, let that progress bar finish. Then change anything in Advanced Settings, and let the progress bar finish again… If you move any parts on the bed, you have to let it finish again… Only when you let it finish each time will you be able to click Start, and see the Start Arrow.

On Ubuntu, the Start button might be greyed out, but if you go in and out of Advanced Settings multiple times, or move the part multiple times it will have the same effect: no Start Arrow.

It is a hassle and it has been reported, but that’s the way it is right now :frowning: The only workaround that I know of is to just be patient and let it finish and try to plan movements and settings changes strategically, kind of like playing chess against FLUX Studio, that and use S3D when possible and just upload the gcode directly…


…and while I’m waiting for FLUX Studio to finish slicing, I let the B9Creator do the Eiffel Tower:
Great job! I guess I’d better switch to printing yoda heads instead of Eiffel Towers :sunglasses:


I am still trying to print it well on simplify 3d. It is the hardest print I have tried so far!


I think that tower is in Italy not France :laughing:


When I checked if Flux Delta were supported by the Simplify3D software, there were good news:


So I got me a license and ran it … first drawback: the Linux version does not come as a proper package (e. g. .deb) but has to be manually unpacked into the /opt directory the old fashioned way.
And has to be invoked through the command line using some “LaunchScript.sh”, though there is a desktop icon in that directory.

Worse: There seems to be no Flux Delta in the list of supported printers within the program … do I have to download some printer description file for that eventually? How do you print from Simplify3D?


The Linux parts I can’t help you with, but we do have other folks here who run Linux. I get beat up for using a Mac sometimes, so the “how to make it run” part you’ll have to figure out. :slight_smile:

There is no third party software that directly connects to the FLUX Delta, that’s not quite how it works.

@goldensnake Luan is our resident guru with S3D and can help you out with the (un)Official profile. If I’m not mistaken he’s been testing it for them and it is about ready for release with next version or something like that.

That gets you the machine profile in S3D. Then you go through the rest of the steps setting up your print inside S3D, importing the model, doing any rotating, scaling, adding support, etc.

S3D gives you a ton of options for setting up processes (and multiple process too).

The basic process, place on build plate, rotate, scale, add support. adjust settings for layers, temps, rafts cooling then Slice It. Save the file as gcode.

Then you open FLUX Studio and open the memory card on the top right and upload that gcode to the internal SD card. It will give you a message about converting the gcode to fcode. Click ok, wait for it to do it’s thing, and then you’ll see your converted file as fcode on the SD card. Double click it to start printing it with the settings you set up in S3D.

The real power comes in that you get a LOT more control. You can set different temps and different cooling for every single layer in a print if you wanted to. You can cut down on large print times by using multiple processes too, and use 30% infill at the base of a print, switch to 10% through the center and back to 30% again at the top, which can cut hours off.

For me personally, the biggest benefit is the ability to place and manipulate custom supports.

Definitely talk to our own @goldensnake here, and watch Maker’s Muse (Angus Deveson) on YouTube, he’s got a bunch of great videos on S3D.


I just finished a Eiffel tower with satisfaction.


Here is mine:


Nice looking Yoda Heads!


It’s better than mine :grin: and very detail. Let me learn something from your fff file. Thanks.