Clicking in filament feeder


This has probably been talked about but how do I stop the “clicking” sound in the filament feeder? It is not constant and not at the same intervals. The part seems to print okay, just annoying.


You definitely want to do a search here for that one first and you’ll likely find the answer.

Could be many things, blocked extruder, speed issue, temp issue, filament moisture issue, etc.

Going to need a lot more detail to figure it out, but I would start with a search first, you’ll probably see the solution before we get to it by process of elimination.

That clicking is because the filament is bucking back inside the extruder, the key is to figure out why.

If you don’t see the answer in one of the many other threads, report back with more details about material, temperature settings, speeds, etc.


Clicking happens when the extruder turns faster than it can actually feed the plastic, and you’re either hearing the motor skip steps or the drive gear slip under the backpressure… The most common fixes are to turn up the temperature and to slow the print down. The third likely cause is overextrusion, caused by the slicer not knowing the filament’s diameter accurately and trying to deposit more plastic than will ‘fit’ as a result. (other circumstances can cause this as well, like BoozeKashi mentions, but these 3 are the most common culprits that I’ve come across personally)

I read that the newest version of Studio and Firmware support adjusting the temperature while you’re printing, so you might be able to do some troubleshooting by running a print and adjusting the temperature while you listen for clicks.


I have one roll of filament which I need to set the extrusion multiplier to 0.95 or else I get a the clicking noise where as all my other rolls are fine on 1.00. I also use a filament oiler which removes any dirt on the filament and makes the PLA slide down the bowden tube more easily.


@Matfink Matt, have you seen this?

Haven’t tested myself, but something to consider.


Thanks to all the replies I received. Will definitely check them out.


Thanks BoozeKashi, that video is really interesting. I think from now on I will not use oil if layer adhesion is critical on PLA. I have already stopped using it with PET filament as that stuff is really slippery anyway and I found it was stopping the first layer sticking to the bed. I am slightly hesitant to stop using it completely as for one year now I have had no jams or clogging and only the occasional click from the extruder which has been due to settings. It’s like a lucky charm.


Kind of surprised me too, but his testing methods is legitimate. That oil does have to go somewhere.


@BoozeKashi Thanks for the video!

Ouch! Now I want to stop using oil with my Delta… but I don’t think that will happen. I use the universal foam filter/oiler that has bene floating around the forum for a while… but only occasionally add a drop or two of oil… so hopefully there isn’t too much ending up in the print… i.e. most of it lost in the extruder/bowden tube path. Then, again, bed adhesion can be a b*#ch at times… so maybe not! :open_mouth:


I used an oiler for a month or two at the beginning because I thought the clicking noise was due to PTFE tube resistance. Then I realized in my case the noise was not related to PTFE tube but mainly the print speed, nozzle temperature and Z0_offset (Z calibration mainly). I don’t use an oiler anymore, instead by experimenting I find the right settings for the different filaments I use. It does require some experimenting and some time but, I think a sweet spot for noiseless printing can be found without using oil.


My solution at the end was also just the right settings depending on the filament I use.

I’m using Hatchbox and ICE Filaments, both working fine with the temperature of 197C, travelling speed of 70mm/s and every other speed setting decreased by about 10-20 mm/s, so my sliders on Speed tab are all set up to about 50mm/s.

With that the clicking sound from the feeder was gone.
Temperature and speed play a crucial role in this!


Those are the two biggest factors in stringing as well.


I have been experiencing the “knocking” from the feeder more regularly now and it got to the point when it became almost constant.
But now the printing has stopped.
I’ve unloaded and reloaded the filament but when it gets to the head it starts knocking again only this time nothing is coming out of the nozzle to show that the filament is fully through the nozzle.
I’ve just touched the nozzle and it is hot so not sure what to do now.
I could change the temperature but it’s bee fine up to now, I am using the filament that came with the printer.
Is there any way to clear the nozzle?


If you were running the printer while that clicking noise was almost constant, you most likely have a blocked nozzle now. (The clicking sound is an indication that something isn’t right.)

Do a forum search here, I just post a quick rundown on how to remove the nozzle, and it’s been written up plenty of times how to clear a jammed/plugged/blocked nozzle. You have described it perfectly. Clicking noise, hot nozzle, nothing coming out.

There are a few things you CAN try before you get into a full nozzle cleaning process that might work.

  1. While the nozzle is hot, use a small brass wire brush and clean the nozzle. Sometimes the jam can be right at the tip and this is enough to dislodge it. Try running Load Filament. If it starts clicking, press the FLUX button on the front of the machine to stop it.

  2. Again while nozzle is hot, press down on the filament release lever on the extruder at the top of the machine and see if you can push the filament through by hand. It takes a steady hand and even pressure, do not push too hard, you do not want to snap the filament near the extruder area. If it works you will feel it ‘give’ and see filament start to ooze from the nozzle.

  3. You can try doing a couple of ‘Hot Pulls’. Heat the nozzle to working temp, 220c and press the filament releas lever on the extruder at the top and pull the filament completely out of the machine in one motion. Try not to stop once you start pulling. Trim off the end of the filament to 45 degrees, reload it with Load command and check. Try this a couple times.

  4. Cold Pull. Do a search on this so you get the timing right. It is similar to a Hot Pull, you heat the nozzle to working temp, but then let it cool down to around ~95c and press release lever and pull filament smoothly and quickly. The concept is that you are heating everything in the hotend to molten, letting it cool enough to become a near solid blob and pulling the obstruction(s) out along with the melted filament. This does work sometimes, but it is a bit trickier to get right. The end of the filament you just pulled out will look like a blob and if you are lucky you may see burnt bits or whatever the obstruction was. If it doesn’t work the first time, I would move on to cleaning, repeated cold pulls are not likely to help.

Try these in order, if nothing works, you will find nozzle cleaning in several posts here. If it does work and you get it flowing again, you need to address why you are getting the clicking so much. Most likely your obstructed nozzle is burnt/scorched filament from incorrect settings and that is causing the extruder bucking.

We’ve all been there, it just takes a bit to find the ideal temps & speeds for each machine & filament.


Just to add to this, one of the reasons I added wings to the flux spanner>
was because the filament could get caught in the connector at the top of the toolhead if the tube is pulled too far away from vertical. I have never had a “blockage”.
Try using the “turn on head temperature” command and load the filament by hand (release the extruder clamp and just push it down the tube) to see if is being caught at the connector.


Thanks both. I’ll have a go and see how I get on.



Well I’ve tried the two methods but unless I’ve not done it correctly they have not worked.
My usual approach to these problems is to find a suitable piece of wire and try to try and push it through to clear the hole, but not sure if this would be a good idea in this instance.
The nozzle is not completely blocked as some filament comes out but not as much as should.
I’ll look for the posts relating to this problem but was wondering if it is possible to remove the nozzle from the print head, not sure I want to try without some advice though?


Yes, it is possible, but you do need to be careful. Basically, you remove the bottom of the print head so you can get a better grip on the nozzle, and also so you can hold on to the bottom of the hot end so it doesn’t move when removing the nozzle. You then heat up the hot end, and when it’s hot, you should be able to relatively easily unscrew the nozzle with a socket. The only reason I say to hold the end of the hot end is I’m sure mine loosened itself because I didn’t… as after a nozzle removal and clean, the blasted think started oozing filament from higher up the food chain… and it was a nightmare to pull the whole thing down fix it up as it didn’t want to tighten up properly so I had to strip it down twice.

When loading the printer, I now manually feed from the top through to the print head, and into the print head. I do this as I know the filament will jam just past the extruder as it enters the bowden tube, and at the print head as it passes into the print head. So I hand push it through so I can feel it go into the print head cleanly, and then let the printer do the filament load and push the filament the last few cm itself.


Please do read up on the other posts first, there are quite a few that are very detailed and will give you a really good idea what you are getting into. It is not difficult, but you are working with very hot parts that WILL burn you, and if you do it incorrectly, you will either create a LOT of work for yourself or you could break the tool head. (Just warning you so you read first, then you can tackle it no problem.)

Here is what I wrote just recently to this same question in another thread.

(And yes, your partial extrusion does sound like a blockage, some can get out, but not much. Probably some crispy burnt stuff in there.



Empty the filament, and disconnect PTFE inlet tube. Bring the nozzle up to temp. That’s actually easier now with latest FLUX Studio, you have manual temp control.

Then unplug or switch off power. Quickly remove tool head from the machine and use appropriate wrench/spanner/socket to take off the nozzle. Do NOT try to do when it cools off or you will VERY likely break the hot end or tool head assembly.

Try not to burn yourself (too much).

Reverse the procedure to put nozzle back on.

Has to be done while hot to account for metal expansion coefficient whatnots, because Science…

From experience, having a leather glove, some forceps or pliers to hold it, and some aluminum foli or metal canister to put it in to protect work surface are all worth having on hand before you start.