Borosilicate glass build plate mod


#1

Took the plunge, and swapped out the steel build plate for a boro

About the only thing you want in terms of features is 220mm diameter (largest standard size that fits in the stock plate footprint), and you want the edges of the glass to be finished (because they’d be dangerously sharp otherwise). This one I ordered from Amazon has nice ground edges, but I suspect there’s little or no difference between sellers on this. Everyone seems to be selling the same glass pieces from China.

you have a few choices on mounts. this 3-part, clip-on mount is what I went with, as it looks great. The downside is that it’s three parts to print, and it takes a while. You end up with something that looks stock, however.

You other choice is something more utilitarian. Not as good-looking, and you have to be careful about printing at the edges, as the build plate is now offset from where the software thinks it is, but it’s functional.

Upsides tot he mod: the build plate is less likely to cause adhesion problems, as the steel plate had quite a bit of thermal mass. You could mitigate that by warming the plate up before printing. I’d run it under hot water, especially when cleaning it for the next run - before I figured it out, I was washing it in cold water, which would cause adhesion problems every time.

Doesn’t appear to affect the calibration process one bit. It finds it with the same light tap it performs on the steel.

It’s also a very nominal modification (though pretty close to the cost of a second steel plate). I paid $16 for the glass, and a handful of hours to print the clips (the plastic costs are negligible).

Downsides: It’s glass. You need to be more careful handling the build plate, and if you drop it, you’ll be standing in (or holding) glass fragments. The steel plate would merely crush your foot, but it wouldn’t shatter. =P


I've seen enough
#2

My big toe would disagree with you… it will shatter if hit by that hulk of steel :stuck_out_tongue:

Nice to hear you’ve upgraded to the borosilicate glass… I jumped on board when Luan started raving about his, and haven’t regretted it. I found the right glue stick that both bonded to the glass well, went on thinly, and set relatively (Papermate glue stick from woolworths if you’re in Australia) and use the three clip solution. Had pretty good prints ever since. I have even done another recently with the steel plate in place as usual, and the glass plate on top, and didn’t have any issues… so depending on if you have a warped steel plate or not, you can do it either way. As far as using glue, It works for me… but I also beleive I’ve seen other people not use anything at all… so depending on climate and PLA, you may or may need it… Having said that… the priming circle seems to stick well to the un-glued section… but I don’t trust the main print due to PLA warpage as it prints…


#3

Here in the States, the Elmer’s Disappearing Purple Glue Stick seem to be a favorite, and work well on both the glass or the steel build plate. However, any decent Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) adhesive will do.

Some glue sticks are Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and don’t appear to adhere as well. Products aren’t always marked as such, so it can be hard to find a good choice (or know when the formulation has changed).


#4

Definite rehash of old topic, but good to see it brought back to life for those interested.

Glass has made all the difference in the world for my prints and I’ve been using it for a long time now. I slip on the steel plate with the magnetic surface once in a while for utilitarian prints, or when I’ve got something large stuck on the glass and I’m freezing it. Sometimes just when it is drying on the dish rack.

I have used, and still use, both of the styles of glass plate holders. I think I put both in the FB file section too. The offset one looks a bit funny but it doesn’t make a difference to operation and if you place it at the front, it makes it faster to get prints off as the plate does not shift. I printed the three-piece in a silver and it looks very cool, but it does allow the plate to jump out of place when using the removal tool (aka hand slicer).

I have sat and watched many prints and looked at both of those clip designs and thought that there is an in-between possibility. A three-piece design, but one that sits flush with the plate, cutouts for the FSRs and maybe even a bit of edge overhangs to keep them locked in place. I just never got around to designing anything because both of the other designs work well enough. :slight_smile:

I do see a lot of talk about Purple Glue in other forums, and yes @darkgrue you nailed it PVA works way better than PVP. After a lot of experimenting I found a super ridiculously cheap one here, that is actually made just a few blocks from my house so I couldn’t be happier.

The only other glue experiment I did after finding that one was buying the tub of liquid PVA glue and mixing it in a pump spray bottle with water. That actually works really well too, and if you use a foam brush (or fingers if I get lazy) it can be spread really super smooth for perfect bottom layers. It does take a few minutes to dry though.


#5

I use to use the glass and glue. I now use the PrintNz zebra plate, no glue, sticks every time, and is a very durable surface.

I use this on both my printers and love it. no glue!!


#6

pmbroth,

How did you adjust the printer for the leveling and calibration steps so as to not touch/burn the PRINTinZ Plate? It says the hot nozzle should not touch the plate. The calibration step has the nozzle at 170 for my current settings. Did you just adjust that setting to zero for calibration and then heat from zero to 210-230 for first layer?

-Lance


#7

It auto adjusts, never had a problem. At first I adjust the zoffest, now I don’t. , it works great. No burning, it is a hard surface, in the middle of the two sided substrate it has a thin layer of metal. If you ever have a whole, or chip you fill it with medium viscosity CA glue, and when dry you sand it! I have been using it for months and months. I bought a bigger piece and cut to size on my band saw. They will also make custom sizes if the size is not there. I had them make me a 23" * 16" for my other printer. I love it…


#8

That’s great to hear. I think I am going to pick up a plate. I’m getting sick of using glue sticks like crazy.

-Lance


#9

I just started using the Flux magnetic base that came with the Upgrade Kit and it does not need glue sticks. So far, after 10 prints no marks on it yet! I also print on it at a lower temp 1st layer around 215C, and will try 210C next. Since the surfaces retains the heat better than glass, lower temp may work depending on PLA material probably!

UPDATE: 1st layer adhesion on Flux magnetic base at 210C works well for me and no marks on the surface. Using generic pink PLA material.


#10

Holy Schnikes! Ends up being a $60+ build plate for just the FLUX at 220mm circle. I can buy a whole lot of 12 baht glue sticks for that :slight_smile: (.35 cents)


#11

Sounds about right. I love it no glue no cleaning and it works. The other build plate for my 23" by 16" build plate was $200. But after trying the black covered decals type for $35.

It comes down to how long you think you will have the printer for. If you think 5 years. $12 a year with no
Glue no cleanup worked for me.


#12

I understand, but I really like the glass. I found the perfect glue and it is made about 2km from where I live and available for next to nothing, I don’t mind it at all. It doesn’t take much, and one application is good for at least 4-6 prints usually.

The FLUX buildtak plate I put on sometimes just for quick release stuff where I don’t care so much about smooth bottom surface and I like flexing things off of it. It’s kind of fun to use.

I still occasionally even use blue tape for some exotic materials just because they seem to stick better.

It all really comes down to whatever works though, and the coolest part is that we have so many options now and no silly kapton tape.


#13

So the PRINTinZ 220mm circle print plate showed up today, it was $45.50 delivered in the states. I’ve printed one job on it so far and all I can say is ‘Wow, what a difference!’ I had printed this same job (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1513481) at least 3 other times on the stock metal plate using glue and each time the corners always listed slightly and made for a slightly deformed outer edge. With this printing plate not only did it stick and not lift, it popped right off when slight pressure was applied to remove after printing finished. I highly recommend it if you are tired of using glue. I’m still waiting for my upgrade kit to arrive, but I’m still very happy with the purchase. Next print to try is something I’ve never been able to get the supports to hold firm enough to the glue applied plate to get past about 15% of the job.

Is there a way to tell the Delta to not heat the head up when it does it’s initial calibration movements? It currently heats to 170c, does the calibration and then heats to first layer temp and starts the 3/4 outside circle. I’d like to have it cold temp the calibration phase if possible. I looked at the extra settings and I’m not seeing anything jump out. Thanks.

-Lance


#14

Doing a leveling calibration with a cold head will definitely have a negative impact on the measurements. There’s two reasons: the thermal expansion of the head changes at print temperatures. The other is that any hard residue on the tip of the nozzle (i.e. a drip) can form a hard point that will make the nozzle appear a lot longer than it really is (nozzle needs to be kept clean anyway, it’ll keep the flow from curling onto the nozzle, and even soft globs will throw off cal). Either one of those can contribute to enough error it could really mess up a print.

For printers like the Flux 3D Delta that use inertial Z-probes, it probably is just an insurmountable design choice that the print bed needs to withstand momentary contact with the hotend. Beds that can’t take the heat require non-contact methods.


#15

congrats! I love it. If you ever find it not sticking, you can use sand paper to do light sanding on it. And like I stated in another post, if you ever have a chip, you can fill it with ca glue, and when dry sand. (This was told to me by the manufacturer.


#16

I went to using the magnetic glass plate and after about 20 prints, the surface is wearing down and there is a fair amount of residue on the surface.

So I’m back to glass, If the surface degrades (after only 3 or 4 prints) , I just clean and respray. Seriously, the best adhesive for glass is Aqua Net hairspray. It is a cheap liquid PVA. Buy 2 or 3 cheap glass plates, and keep one drying at all times.


#17

Great tips. Thanks for the adhesive recommendation because I would not have a clue which to get.