Alternative glue sticks


#1

I’ve tried to source the Scotch branded glue stick that came with the Flux here in Australia, but couldn’t find it at my local office supply store. So I tried a few different alternative brands. I found that Bostik glue sticks are a bad choice with poor adhesion. However, this brand worked really well and the bigger size makes it much easier to apply consistently:

Anybody else had good results with alternative brands?


#2

That is exactly the one I bought since the one that came with ran out. The good and bad about it??

Good thing about it - sticks extremely well

Bad thing about it - sort of drys quick, need to apply right when its about to print or it drys and need to re-apply.

Other than that, it’s what I am using…anybody else? Any other solutions or ideas?

Have you tried the blue tape? I haven’t, thinking about buying it this week just to see…


#3

I recommend ditching the glue stick option altogether. i found that is dried out too fast and you have to scrape it off.
Use the blue masking tape or as I do use this:

No lifting or curling and stays clean. On other printers I usually get dozens of prints before I think about replacing.
Got a 30hr print on the go right now on the Flux.

This particular supplier is in OZ…but Flashforge ‘buildtak’ is the best I have used and you can get it directly from them.

Fair dinkum, give it a shot.


#4

I believe instead of a stick of glue, a pack of this build tape should be part of the initial packaging. In fact, they can probably laser cut the dimensions of the circular print area with the tape.

Thanks, MattCP, for your input…that is what the community is for…

Just curious…Amazon has something similar for a better price…is this the same as the one you have?


#5

Awesome - thanks for the tip!


#6

I’ve been using this exact gluestick as well. I’ve gone through about 4 of them so far. I tend to just leave the residue from the previous print, scrape it lightly with the tool Flux provided to smooth it out some, then apply another light coat before starting another print. I clean all the glue off after 4 or 5 prints, or whenever I think it just needs it. I still get smooth bottoms on my prints and haven’t had any issues. Most adhesion problems occur after I had just cleaned the plate and reapplied brand new glue. It seems the added texture from previous glue layers helps a lot. That’s been my experience anyways.


#7

Once my Flux arrive I will use this:


#8

@Kevin_Anthony

We always get better adhesion after the glue dried. We even use a hair dryer. Curious if you get the opposite result from ours?


#9

Hi i use tape from TESA 50 mm and whit exelent results, no glue no gleaning from the plate only get it from the plate end use a new one


#10

This has been my experience as well. I was under the assumption that having the glue wet would increase adhesion. Recently though, when I had left the glue to dry for to long on accident to replace filament, the print ended up sticking perfectly.

The more you know.


#11

For the price, I would be very interested in your mileage from this. I always wondered why the plate did not come prepared with some sort adhesion system.


#12

Actually, i have had just the opposite. There have been times when the glue dries and the print is skidding across with the filament still stuck on the tip, but when the glue (for me) is slightly tacky, it catches nicely.

I am still LEARNING and learning about 3D print is time consuming but fun.


#13

I’ve had excellent results using the same technique as on another printer.

I almost never scrape or re-coat: the glue from those glue sticks is reusable after wetting. I have an existing layer of glue left on the build plate, and before each print I use a spray bottle to put a very light mist of water on top of it. This “releases” the glue, making it reworkable, and I then I gently re-spread it a little to cover any gaps from old base positions. It dries relatively quickly (though not as fast as on my heated-buildplate machine!) and once it’s almost dry, only just very very slightly tacky, it’s the perfect time for the print to hit it. So far I’ve had zero stick-failures using this technique, and it makes the glue last many dozens of times longer!

Hope this might help somebody.


#14

Found this trove for $13 on Amazon:


#15

I’ve been using these ones for a while now and I’ve been pretty happy with them. They dry a bit stiffer than the one shipped with the Flux. I can tell because when I scrape them off, it will flake off more than the original glue did.


#16

Is that a USB Light connected to the FLUX?


#17

I’ve started to use purple Elmer’s gluesticks. They have a bit of smell to them, but they work pretty damn well.


#18

Sure is. Makes printing so much nicer. $8 on Amazon.
Note: Mine isn’t actually dimmable, but I don’t care because I only want it on or off.

Edit: That light does actually dim if you hold your finger on the capacitive touch button at the end of the light.


#19

I adapted your idea. Since I have enough glue sticks to last at least a year with daily prints, I’m only partially reusing the glue. Immediately after a print, I re-apply the stick to the areas that got scraped or peeled off. This glue seems to prefer sticking to the metal over itself, so it fills the gaps quite nicely.

When I’m prepping the slicer for the next print, I mist the entire plate lightly with water and let it all soak in and re-bond. When the glue is nearly dry, it’s the perfect time to print. I’ve had zero adhesion issues since I switched to moistened glue-stick glue.


#20

I have been using 3M reposition-able 75 spray adhesive directly on the smooth side of the steel plate. I also wipe between prints with 90% isopropyl alcohol and so far have had pretty good success, more so than the glue sticks. The adhesive can be removed entirely with a solvent if it gets too clumpy or does not work for you. Some of the printing settings for the first layer can be crucial depending on your design.